Type: Trad, 90 ft, Grade V
FA: State Brook Team
Page Views: 51 total · 2/month
Shared By: Rob Upton on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Start underneath the roof just to the right of the Gary Goes Home Crying. Climb up the left side of the left-facing block. Grab the crack behind the block and make layback moves to the roof. Traverse out right onto the large block. Standing on the left end of the shelf, lean out to clip the bolt. Climb straight up through odd horizontals to the small crack. Climb the crack as it widens to the top. Rejoin Gary and climb the phallus to the anchor at the top.

Location

There two climbs involve a huge block at the base of the cliff. About 20ft up there is a 2ft deep and 10ft long shelf on top of this block. For both this climb and Bipolar Express, you end up standing on the shelf.

Protection

Trad with 1 Bolt, 2 bolt anchor/lower off

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