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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Boys T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft, Grade IV
FA: 5/11/2018 Johnathan Nickel
Page Views: 154 total · 6/month
Shared By: Rob Upton on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Start directly below the v-shaped notch in the roof. Climb straight up and then transverse. Climb up to the roof and series of right facing corners. Climb the roof through a series of strenuous moves. Once over the roof traverse right to join a thin crack. Climb the crack and thin face to the top.

Location

To the right of the large ledge of Bipolar Express and directly below a v-shaped notch.

Protection

Three bolts plus a single rack from small wires to a #2 Camalot. 

Photos

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Rob Upton
5.12-
Rob Upton  
5.12-
This route has amazing potential. This route hasn't had a first accent as far as I know. Would love to find someone who want to work this. I think the bottom likely needs a bolt or two. Jul 17, 2016
J. Nickel  
 
This route is high-quality the whole way with excellent gear. One of the better routes of the grade in the Southern Daks, although nothing touches Release the Kraken at Pinnacle. Thanks to Rob Upton for spotting the line, putting in the anchors, and letting me work the route. Aug 29, 2018

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