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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: 3/3/2013, Rob Upton
Page Views: 183 total, 6/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Jul 22, 2015 with updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent straight crack line. Despite the guide booklet's advisory that the start is harder than 10, I found it pretty straightforward with two good fingerlocks. There is a long reach between them however, and I could see the move feeling like an 11 if you can't make the reach (or if you plug either slot with gear). But I'm 5-9 with negative ape index and I had no real problem. The rest of the pitch is sweet!

Location

First vertical crack right of the dirt cone with the erosion control logs.

Protection

Gear looks great, but hey, I was on TR.

Photos

Climb straight up the crack with awkward moves. Continue straight up the crack until it trends out right. Follow the crack out right to the top. Alternatively, start on the slightly easier crack of Wally and traverse back left to rejoin the route. Jul 17, 2016