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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 154 total, 4/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Oct 25, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Don't pass up gear on this one. Some moves that make you go hmmmm. Start under the right facing corner. Power up this with good gear to a stance. Tip toe up the arete until it is possible to step right and climb the face right of the arete to a ledge. Climb straight up to the anchors.

Location

On the left side of the log step dirt cone at a right facing right leaning corner.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

@Gunkiemike I think the anchors you were for Big Bro, further back in the gulley Jul 17, 2016
To the right of Butter My Butt and past Uncle Hal Direct is a broken arête on the left side of the dirty gulley. Climb the blocky arête moving out right up the face through awkward undercling/layback moves under the slanting roof. Climb straight up the arête to the obvious ledge just below the anchors. Jul 17, 2016
Great route. I thought it was G rated gear-wise (not the stated PG), but maybe I drifted a bit too far right in the last few bodylengths, as there was a beautiful 1" crack leading to a spot even with, but a few feet right of, the anchors. Or maybe the very thin crack halfway up the route where I got in a couple red X4s was the "PG spot". Whatever, loved the pitch.

One dis - it's the only route I've done there where the top anchor in not well suited for lowering. It's a pair of beefy links that are 90* out of the orientation you'd want them to be. No biggie, rig a sling, and last climber raps. I'll improve it next time I'm there. Jul 22, 2015