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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 2,500 ft
GPS: 32.316, -110.742 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,864 total, 94/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...


A large fin of rock that juts out of the hillside. It has a broken up south face that looks like it would have some routes on it if someone was to do a lot of cleaning. The routes I know of are on the narrow west face just before you reach the north face and on the north face. The rock is generally good but not bullet hard as a rule. You will occasionally find some funk somewhere on the climbs but the big stuff is usually solid. There are a few trad routes, some old aid routes that may or may not reach the top and a bunch of sport routes. The north face is shady and can be climbed most of the year.

Getting There

Park at the hairpin and hike up the drainage until it makes a big right hand turn. and you find yourself right below a large wall.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pinhead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


Kemper Brightman   Tucson
A great alternative to Milagrosa for those looking for shady routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range. The hike from the pull-out is only about 20min. Feb 7, 2017
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
This wall gets almost no sun in November only the routes on the far right get afternoon sun. On a day with forecasted highs of 80 in Tucson conditions here were absolutely perfect. Nov 24, 2015
I know its not the season anymore, but if anyone heads up here and finds an orange GriGri2 please let me know! This is the last place I remember having it (Around Critics Choice likely, though I didn't see it when I went back to look). -Intan Jul 14, 2015
Ray Ringle bolted this line years ago. If you cleaned off all the loose holds there wouldn't be a climb there at all. It would be a great climb if the rock was better.

It's a bit harder than .12-. Especially has the hold at the crux keeps crumbling away. Feb 10, 2014
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
There is an unlisted sport route to the right of Gray Matter. I've heard it is around 5.12- and isn't on great rock but haven't climbed it myself. Feb 9, 2014
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
We found an olive green "Quechua" snowboardingtype jacket at the base me and you can be reunited Mar 24, 2012

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