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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: ?????
Page Views: 514 total, 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Technical climbing and puzzling sequences on steep rock.

Location

First route left of Pinhead Crack. Heads up face to a wide pillar.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11a/b
Crimpy, hard, I think its well worth doing if you are over here. Do Go Speed Racer first as it is better. Apr 8, 2013
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
  5.11a/b PG13
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
  5.11a/b PG13
Could be a decent climb with 2 more bolts. Easy climbing through the 2 runout areas, but the rock is crap there. A pack of playing cards size chunk of the nice ledge I was clipping from popped off under my foot while I was clipping the 4th bolt. Would have been a grounder if I hadn't grabbed the draw. Stay to the left when going for the chains. I was a bit spooked after the 4th clip and was looking for easy ground to get to the chains and went for the big holds to the right of the chains. Bad idea since my big handhold broke off just as I was clipping chains. Could easily have been a 30 footer onto a ledge. Great solid holds if you stay to the left though. Don't really understand the reason for the runouts. Plenty of solid rock to put in 2 more bolts to keep people off the ground and big ledges. It would be totally different if it was nice solid rock, but it's not. Dec 24, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b PG13
Groundfall runout from 3rd to 4th bolt, it's on easier ground but also where there's a lot of crappy rock. Dec 9, 2011
Jimbo
  5.11a/b
Jimbo  
  5.11a/b
Mary and Rays route is a letter grade or two harder than Go Speed Racer. More like .11a/b. Top half is really good. Opening moves are weird and troublesome. Nov 29, 2011