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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Lantz, Kevin Carmichael, Diane Vetter,'94
Page Views: 1,925 total, 26/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

Steep face with some sustained sections.

Location

On the far left side of the north face it is the third route left of the crack system.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jimbo  
Let me get this straight, JBak, you had never done Go Speed Racer until now? Arguably the best 5.10 sport route on the mountain. You really need to expand your horizons my friend. May 2, 2016
jbak
  5.10
jbak  
  5.10
Ray and Joe S told me this was a great route...they were right !! Apr 30, 2016
Great climb! Long, pumpy, thoughtful and definitely one of the best 10's on Mt Lemmon. Dec 7, 2014
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.10c
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.10c
If sport climbing is your bag, this is the 5.10 on lemmon. Mar 17, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10+
Very nice juggy 5.10 with lots of shake out rests on jugs and good foot holds so you can eyeball the next sequence. Well bolted, safe, pure fun sport climbing. A couple of hard moves make it 5.10+ but I don't believe it clocks in at any 5.11 range. Moves into the sun about 3 pm.
One comment on the description - it is the Second bolted route left of the big crack, not the third Apr 8, 2013
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
  5.11a
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
  5.11a
Great climb. Pretty sustained. Not many good rests to recover on. Gotta keep moving. Pretty stiff for a 10d. Well bolted so don't be afraid to hop on and give it a go. Mussy hooks at anchors. Dec 18, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
Really good climb with good rock, especially considering it's at Hairpin. Pretty sustained hard 10 at least, could even be 11-, but since I couldn't feel my fingers after the first few moves, it's hard to tell.

In the winter, it's probably better to get a late start and let the rock warm up a bit. Even being in the shade all day, it eventually does start thawing out. Dec 10, 2011
Jimbo  
I've climbed this twice in the last week. IMO one of the better 5.10 sport routes on the Lemmon. A must do, worth the walk for this climb alone. Nov 29, 2011