Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Lantz, Kevin Carmichael, Diane Vetter,'94
Page Views: 2,791 total · 32/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

82 Opinions

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Steep face with some sustained sections.


On the far left side of the north face it is the third route left of the crack system.




I've climbed this twice in the last week. IMO one of the better 5.10 sport routes on the Lemmon. A must do, worth the walk for this climb alone. Nov 29, 2011
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Really good climb with good rock, especially considering it's at Hairpin. Pretty sustained hard 10 at least, could even be 11-, but since I couldn't feel my fingers after the first few moves, it's hard to tell.

In the winter, it's probably better to get a late start and let the rock warm up a bit. Even being in the shade all day, it eventually does start thawing out. Dec 10, 2011
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
Great climb. Pretty sustained. Not many good rests to recover on. Gotta keep moving. Pretty stiff for a 10d. Well bolted so don't be afraid to hop on and give it a go. Mussy hooks at anchors. Dec 18, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Very nice juggy 5.10 with lots of shake out rests on jugs and good foot holds so you can eyeball the next sequence. Well bolted, safe, pure fun sport climbing. A couple of hard moves make it 5.10+ but I don't believe it clocks in at any 5.11 range. Moves into the sun about 3 pm.
One comment on the description - it is the Second bolted route left of the big crack, not the third Apr 8, 2013
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
If sport climbing is your bag, this is the 5.10 on lemmon. Mar 17, 2014
Great climb! Long, pumpy, thoughtful and definitely one of the best 10's on Mt Lemmon. Dec 7, 2014
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Ray and Joe S told me this was a great route...they were right !! Apr 30, 2016
Let me get this straight, JBak, you had never done Go Speed Racer until now? Arguably the best 5.10 sport route on the mountain. You really need to expand your horizons my friend. May 2, 2016
John O'Brien  
Super fun route, I'd agree one of the best 10s on the mountain I've done. Tricky for me to read some sections, missed some unchalked holds in the intro which made it feel really tenuous and a bit harder than 10+, but a really fun challenge. Proud onsight for me! Mar 12, 2018