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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: PPK, JSt
Page Views: 873 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Jan 10, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A moderate warmup for the wall.

Sustained at the grade with great movement

Location

15 left of Fatmando, climbs obvious big corner

Protection

Bolts, chains.

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
What a unique and enjoyable climb! Personally I thought the highlight was the strangeness - the pod halfway up is very unique, and if you employ some chimney/off-width/groveling technique, the upper section is also pretty cool. Do this and Speed Racer and you'll be in a great mood. Jan 10, 2017
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
Bottom 2/3rd is super fun ***'s. top 1/3rd still good but brings overall down to 2 stars. Great climb. Dec 24, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
  5.10
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.10
A hard finish can be had by moving left out of the shallow corner to the top of the pillar to the left and finishing on the the new finish to Hairy Interlude. This was jokingly referred to as Hair Extension 5.11c/d. Feb 13, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
  5.10
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.10
Have to agree with Christian. Steep jugs, cool shallow corner then lower angle arete climbing. Feb 4, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Looks like a pile but it's surprisingly good. Feb 4, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Moderate climb with interesting moves. The moves to climb the corner crazy fun. One of the better lines on the wall IMO. Jan 11, 2012