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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JSt,DBr,'99
Page Views: 650 total, 9/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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This climb is on the west end of the buttress no where near where it is shown in SQII. Pretty fun climb with good pro. Anchors are up and right of the large broken pillar quite a ways off the line. They are there because the FA team had planned to climb the crack above but it turned out to be too chossy. This climb has an old school feel with some runs on much easier ground.


Climbs weaknesses up to a corner crack that leads to a large blocky broken pillar. The route busts right before you reach the top of the crack.


Gear to Yellow camalot.


We scrambled onto the ledge from the right. You can get a small but good TCU to protect the moves out onto the face and up to the ledge where the first bolt can be seen. Feb 10, 2014
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
The anchors are approximatley 6 feet left of the anchors for Needle Noggin at the base of the seam.

What is the intended start? Do you (1) Scramble to the ledge from the right, (2) climb the chossy looking weakness by Critic's Choice or (3) clip the first three bolts Needle Noggin. Feb 9, 2014
A must do for the trad climber who happens to be wandering around back there with a rack wondering what to do while wandering around. Nov 29, 2011