Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JSt,DBr,'99
Page Views: 688 total · 8/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This climb is on the west end of the buttress no where near where it is shown in SQII. Pretty fun climb with good pro. Anchors are up and right of the large broken pillar quite a ways off the line. They are there because the FA team had planned to climb the crack above but it turned out to be too chossy. This climb has an old school feel with some runs on much easier ground.

Location

Climbs weaknesses up to a corner crack that leads to a large blocky broken pillar. The route busts right before you reach the top of the crack.

Protection

Gear to Yellow camalot.

Photos

Jimbo  
A must do for the trad climber who happens to be wandering around back there with a rack wondering what to do while wandering around. Nov 29, 2011
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
The anchors are approximatley 6 feet left of the anchors for Needle Noggin at the base of the seam.

What is the intended start? Do you (1) Scramble to the ledge from the right, (2) climb the chossy looking weakness by Critic's Choice or (3) clip the first three bolts Needle Noggin. Feb 9, 2014
Jimbo  
We scrambled onto the ledge from the right. You can get a small but good TCU to protect the moves out onto the face and up to the ledge where the first bolt can be seen. Feb 10, 2014