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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JSt, DCnk, GHdl
Page Views: 714 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Jan 7, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A devious and wandering crux section will limit on sights of this route. A second bit of business up high will put your red point in jeopardy.

Location

20 feet right of Hairy Interlude.

Protection

Bolts, chains

Photos

John Steiger
  5.11d
John Steiger  
  5.11d
As I gather from EFR’s post, this was a significantly different climb than it is as of a week or so ago. Now, IMO, solidly three stars, two cruxes (the second slightly harder and a bit more spooky), and approaching 12a to flash, I suspect. Mar 24, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11+
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11+
Remember that big spooky flake in the middle of this route. We all pulled on it while saying to ourselves "it held the last guy". It's gone. Amazing what a crowbar will do. Didn't really take much either. The left sequence at the bottom may not be there as the critical crimp is gone there too.

It is new and different so you get to redpoint it again. This is great. A whole new route with out a single new hole. Ha Ha. Feb 9, 2012