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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: GH, AB, JSt, PP
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Geir on Jan 9, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route goes up the crack and chimney to the right of Fatmando. Tricky gear in funky rock. Andy Bennett got the first free ascent after I broke a hold and fell on the FA.

Location

Starts about 15' right of Fatmando.

Protection

Two bolts, stoppers, singles to 4" with extra 1-2".

Photos

Jimbo  
Geir,

Leave it up. Maybe someone will come along and clean the loose stuff off instead of just bitching about it.

I've led this twice now. I think the bit of loose adds to the climb. Apr 15, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Greg,

I bothered with the two bolts so that I wouldn't die on the ground up FA. Other than that, I think you're right on the mark.

This route would require so much cleaning to make it safe that I'd just be manufacturing a route. It would be much better to take it down then leave a legacy like that behind. I'll be happy to remove it the next time I'm up there. Apr 14, 2013
greg k
 
greg k  
 
although i got up w/out sending much down but dribble, the next guy/gal might not be so lucky. i'm a little surprised the FA would go to the trouble of bolts and anchor given the present state of choss. at this pt., still a prime candidate for pile status. Apr 13, 2013
Jimbo  
I led this a few days ago as did Dave Kravant. We were both happy to clip the two bolts Geir placed on lead. 10- is a fair grade, protection is adequate, but this one still needs a good bit of cleanup work. An hour or so with a pry bar and a brush will make this a great mixed route. (Hint hint, Geir)

Anchors have been moved to the top of the chimney on the left. Feb 14, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks guys. I don't think it would have been reasonable to do it ground up without Jim's work to clean the really dangerous stuff beforehand. It was spooky enough as it was. Jan 11, 2012
Proud ascent, I was spooked just following and cleaning this thing Jan 10, 2012
Jimbo  
Another bold ground up by the Geir man. Funky pro and iffy rock made it exciting for Geir and us in the peanut gallery.

Once it's cleaned up this should be a great route. Jan 10, 2012