Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JSt, EFR
Page Views: 815 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Mar 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A must do on the Pin Head wall.

Two cruxes, one low and one high with a powerful finish through the roof.

The 15 feet of easy climbing in the middle is welcome after the pumpy start and quickly forgotten as you tackle the face below the roof.

Location

Just right at the top of the trail. Look for a low bolt that serves as a belay bolt and protection bolt.

Protection

Bolts, Chains/biners

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Fabulous route with nice variety. My favorites at the crag so far are: Go Speed Racer, Arterial Flow, and Critic's Choice, in that order. Feb 9, 2014
I agree but it is a bit easier if you are taller so I doubt anything came off. Jan 25, 2014
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11d
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11d
Bottom crux seems harder, wonder if something came off? Jan 24, 2014
One of those routes I look forward to doing again. Love the powerful crimps low and the slopers that get you under the roof and the killer fingerlocks above. This route will rain on you for a while but the big stuff is solid. The wedge shaped flake at the lip has been pulled on for all it is worth. Mar 2, 2012