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Routes in Pinhead Wall

'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fatmando S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Noggin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zippy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Unknown Equipped By Ray Ringle
Page Views: 306 total, 12/month
Shared By: jbak on Dec 7, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Ray says he drilled this line about 10 years ago for a girl named Anna who wanted to do an FA. Then she abandoned the effort. Ray never red-pointed it either, so it sat as an open project. It's hard to believe it would sit for long because it is a nice-looking line and there are zillions of climbers in the country that could cruise it. In fact I saw a local flash it pretty easily yesterday (may 2016). So I assume the FA is unknown.

I normally like routes that are at least slightly overhung. This one seems dead vertical but I like it anyway because it has an unusual combination of good handholds but marginal footholds. How is that possible ? Because the handholds are mostly side-pulls and underclings so they don't turn into good footholds as you climb past them.

Most of the route is about 5.11 but there is a definite, height-intensive, crux after the fourth bolt. Climbers who are 6'6" might think it is 5.11d. Climbers who are 5'2" will likely think 12c. If you are my height (5'10") the crux is very pretty if you do it right, and 5.12 seems right on.

Location

Located between Gray Matter and Arterial Flow. The former is to the left; the latter is to the right. Anna's Route ascends orange rock with unique in-cut holds.

Protection

8 bolts to fixed anchors.

May 2016: replaced bolts 2,3,4 with 1/2" x 5" SS with Ray's permission.

Photos

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Remy Franklin
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
Remy Franklin   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
I did this route with Anna about a year ago (before Canada's comment) and had a blast! Yes, some of the holds flexed (they're probably gone now...) but I thought the movement was fun and pretty sustained. Sounds like it needs some more cleaning... curious to see what it goes at when the rock has stopped exfoliating! 3 days ago
Yeah, I gotta stop eating those maple doughnuts :) Jan 24, 2017
Jim and I never felt it was worth trying to Redpoint this for the reasons "Canada" mentioned earlier. We didn't even think cleaning off all the choss would turn it into anything but a blank wall. Jan 22, 2017
jbak
 
jbak  
 
jesus fatso !! Jan 21, 2017
I really wanted to like this route. It has fun movement for the most part, but sadly it can't get beyond the fact that it's an exfoliating house of choss.

The route now has two fewer holds thanks to my recent attempts on the climb. Unfortunately one of the holds was part of the crux. Said crux which was already desperately difficult at my 5' 9" height is now even harder.

There are plenty more holds on this route that are ready to join the rubble at the bottom if you decide to play "Choss or Not". Jan 21, 2017
I'm the Anna! Can't believe I never saw this before on here. I helped Ray bolt this thing when I was 17 or 18, many moons ago, but was scared by the friable holds and too weak for the crux -- then went off to college and forgot about it. I'm home for the holidays and decided to go do it today. Was pleasantly surprised by the enjoyable movements!! Not surprised by the flexing underclings. :) Dec 20, 2016
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Thanks for updating the route description, John. I appreciate it. May 9, 2016
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Certainly not a project any more. 2 redpoints and a flash today. Difficulty seems height-related. 12b if 6'0" or more, 12c if 5'9" or less. May 7, 2016
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Good route.....holds seemed fine to me. I broke one, but it only improved the route. I think Ray calls this "Anna's Route". Apr 30, 2016
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Thanks for the response and thanks for looking at the route again. I can get behind cleaning the route and will try to work on it next time I'm out there. That said this route in particular and this wall in general are not a high priority for me at this time. Dec 10, 2015
Jimbo  
The safety of the route is not in question it's the longevity of the route that is. Ray bolted it OK.

Dean Brault and I got to the chains years ago. We both broke several holds on the way up. We never bothered red pointing it.

EFR and I top roped it off the chains for Grey matter years ago and also broke a bunch of holds. I gave it a serious look again yesterday lowering off Grey Matter. It still looks like some of the holds will not stand the test of time. All I'm suggesting is give all the suspect flakes, even the ones that are key holds, a good pry. They may break off and leave nothing or they may break off and leave a hold.

Good on ya if you red point this route it's technical and pumpy. Lots of slippery side pulls. Good luck and remember we're counting on you.

I would just suggest putting real effort into cleaning it up so others in years to come can climb the same route by the same holds that you did. Dec 10, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Have you climbed the route, Jim? Since you have lots of experience with new routing and this wall, your opinion carries weight with me. I gave this line three lead attempts this past weekend and felt safe. While the route would definitely benefit from some cleaning it wasn't the complete pile I had been led to believe. Dec 8, 2015
Jimbo  
I would suggest that anyone who is keen to send this route first go up with a crow bar and pry off the copious amount of loose holds. You may find there are no longer any holds left to climb it. If there are still enough holds to get up it you will have done the community a great service. Dec 8, 2015