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Anna's Route
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Unknown Equipped By Ray Ringle |
Page Views: | 694 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | jbak . on Dec 7, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd |
The Forest Service as closed all areas in Mount Lemmon until November 1, 2020 because of recent forest fire activity. Climbing is not permitted at this time.
Description
Ray says he drilled this line about 10 years ago for a girl named Anna who wanted to do an FA. Then she abandoned the effort. Ray never red-pointed it either, so it sat as an open project. It's hard to believe it would sit for long because it is a nice-looking line and there are zillions of climbers in the country that could cruise it. In fact I saw a local flash it pretty easily yesterday (may 2016). So I assume the FA is unknown.
I normally like routes that are at least slightly overhung. This one seems dead vertical but I like it anyway because it has an unusual combination of good handholds but marginal footholds. How is that possible ? Because the handholds are mostly side-pulls and underclings so they don't turn into good footholds as you climb past them.
Most of the route is about 5.11 but there is a definite, height-intensive, crux after the fourth bolt. Climbers who are 6'6" might think it is 5.11d. Climbers who are 5'2" will likely think 12c. If you are my height (5'10") the crux is very pretty if you do it right, and 5.12 seems right on.
I normally like routes that are at least slightly overhung. This one seems dead vertical but I like it anyway because it has an unusual combination of good handholds but marginal footholds. How is that possible ? Because the handholds are mostly side-pulls and underclings so they don't turn into good footholds as you climb past them.
Most of the route is about 5.11 but there is a definite, height-intensive, crux after the fourth bolt. Climbers who are 6'6" might think it is 5.11d. Climbers who are 5'2" will likely think 12c. If you are my height (5'10") the crux is very pretty if you do it right, and 5.12 seems right on.
Location
Located between Gray Matter and Arterial Flow. The former is to the left; the latter is to the right. Anna's Route ascends orange rock with unique in-cut holds.
Photos
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