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Areas in Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)

Approach Wall 0 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Back Walls 3 / 10 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Main Wall Cave Routes 0 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Main Wall, The 0 / 15 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Opposite Main Wall 0 / 13 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Outer Wall 2 / 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Pachyderm Buttress 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pachyderm Slab 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine Wall 3 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 6
Wonderland 0 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 1,412 ft
GPS: 40.778, -122.004 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 51,929 total, 687/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Sep 27, 2011 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

An excellent limestone sport climbing crag, located 26 miles outside of Redding on the way to Burney via the 299. The rock is limestone of pretty good quality, a bit dirty from lack of use but solid.

Getting There

From the I-5 take CA299 east toward Burney. Burney Limestone is 26 miles outside of Redding. First you will pass a pretty large limestone outcropping, this is not it. The road is primarily S turns, but after a large S turn, you will see a paved pullout on the right side of the road accompanied by a Highway Information sign with lights on top. There is a small gravel pullout just beyond this on the right hand side of the road and a small trail on the left side of the road, (across the road) heading up a steep hill into the forest. This is the approach trail. The trail is very small and not well marked,(look for a 5'tall rock outcropping) but it is there and takes you right into The Shredding. You'll know you passed it if you see a large limestone wall on the left. This is the wall know as The Pachyderm Wall aka The Sunshine Wall. Cross the road with caution, it is a highway, vehicles come around the corner at high speed.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Food
Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Remedy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Nose
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Abstinence
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Figure Four
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swallow Hole
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nemesis
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chastity Belt
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crank Whore
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hole in the Wall
Sport, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Porn Star
Sport, Boulder
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion Victim
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Space Sluts
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spread Eagle
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Quarter
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Baby Food Opposite Main Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Remedy Approach Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
The Nose Outer Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Abstinence Opposite Main Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport, TR
Figure Four Outer Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Swallow Hole Back Walls 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Nemesis Outer Wall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chastity Belt Opposite Main Wall 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Crank Whore Main Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hole in the Wall Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Porn Star Main Wall Cave Routes 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ Sport, Boulder
Fashion Victim Main Wall 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Space Sluts Main Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Spread Eagle Main Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
No Quarter Main Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Burney Limestone (aka The Shredding) »

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Photos

Thanks Dan, Steve and others for putting up all these new routes. After climbing a bunch of stuff up to 5.9 there for two days, in general, it seems the ratings of the easier climbs are all over the place. Feb 18, 2016
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
A NOTE ON THE NEW GLUEIN BOLTS AND ANCHORS

Having lived in Sydney for the last 7 years, i learned to bolt in the sandstone of the blue mountains, under the tutelage of Mike Law and Steven Hawkshaw, both industrial engineers and climbers. The following document is the general guide that i follow.

google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q…

With the gluein anchor placements, when lowering off or TR, it is better to thread the rap ring if there is one and also thread the bolt. ( as the purpose is always to have 2 safety points) The 2 are offset to prevent rope twist which happens on 2 anchor points at the same level (overcome on most existing climbs at the shredding by unsightly chains). If quickdraws are used to TR off the anchors, i noticed on a couple of routes on the outer wall, (King of Fives and Momento Mori) the gate can be forced open with the angles generated from the rope line, as i didnt space them well enough, so its better to used a screwgate when TR, if you dont want to thread the anchor. Aug 2, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
bring a stick clip for high first bolts. Can be loose on the lesser climbed areas Oct 16, 2014

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