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All Locations > California > Northeast Calif… > Burney Limeston… > Opposite Main Wall

Abstinence

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13


 Avg: 2.3 from 15 votes

Routes in Opposite Main Wall

Abstinence S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Archaic Revival S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Food S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chastity Belt S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chopper Copper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
English Breakfast S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Exit Arête Right S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gateway Drug S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geko Skin V2 5+
Pop Rocks V6 7A PG13
Terrys Angels S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wintu Wall S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
project groove S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
shred or dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Paul Bernard?
Page Views: 599 total · 7/month
Shared By: NorCalNomad on Dec 29, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Route to the right of Baby Food, obvious chains anchor at the top. Starts either on the rock resting against the wall, or for added difficulty, just down and to the right of it. Little mossy/chossy at first..feel free to clean as you go! No lead bolts yet, top rope only.

Location

Opposite the Main Wall

Protection

4 bolts and chains

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Pulling the crux moves just before the anchor
Pulling the crux moves just before the anchor
 0
peach fuzz..
peach fuzz..
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6 Comments

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Paul Bernard
Chester, CA
5.9 PG13
Paul Bernard   Chester, CA
5.9 PG13
Just added 4 bolts to this route. Still clocks in at about 5.9 with the crux getting to and past the first bolt. A little sporty for those not comfortable at the grade. We named it "Abstinence." :) Jan 8, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Updated thanks Paul. Mar 18, 2014
Superdavinit
Santa Rosa, California
Superdavinit   Santa Rosa, California
Led this today. Fun little balance sport route. Very good warm up stuff for the main wall or beginning leaders. Pretty straightforward holds and feet. Aug 8, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Its possible to finish at the new anchors up and R for the full 5.9 tick! Sep 15, 2015
Ellis L
Chico, CA
 
Ellis L   Chico, CA
 
The last bolt was spinning as of 9/10/16. It is hand tightened for now. Sep 15, 2016
Megan Jean
 
Megan Jean  
 
Last bolt still spinning 3/11/17. Hand tightened again for now. Mar 11, 2017

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