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Routes in The Main Wall

Beds are Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crank Whore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranked on Fashion S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion Victim S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Genesis 666 S,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love Muffin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Quarter S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PMS S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pancake Day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quarter Ounce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shrove Tuesday Finish, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Sluts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spread Eagle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Squeeze (closed project) S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tiger's Reach S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 160 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Oct 12, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Good edges lead up to a blank headwall. Clipping the fourth bolt is a bit strenuous. The crux is the blankness guarding the chains, from a poor crimp and a pretty good left hand either dyno or levitate. Very fun route, the anchor is in need of a retrobolt, or maybe just new hangers/ chains.

Location

The second route from the far right of the cliff, to the right of PMS and the left of Beds, or two bolts lines to the right of Fashion Victim.

Protection

4 bolts to a terrible 2 bolt anchor, Leeper hangers connected together with some homemade looking cable.

Photos

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Steve Weyand
Redding
  5.12b
Steve Weyand   Redding
  5.12b
On May 9, 2014 I replaced the rusty 1st bolt and hanger with a new Powers 3.5" bolt and Fixe hanger. Bolts 2, 3, & 4 are still in good shape and the hangers and nuts have been straitened and tightened. I also replaced the 2 bolt anchor and manky cable with 2 new bolts and hangers and added quick links and leaver 'biners for the lower off. May 29, 2014
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
BLOC 7B, almost 7b+ for the onsight placing draws! Nov 2, 2014
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
new glueins + new lower offs added.

Bolts have been respaced for the onsight. Be solid on the 3rd clip and dont bring a muppet belayer!

The bolts and anchors are solid 6" meaty things so feel free to log some air time... Mar 29, 2016

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