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Routes in The Main Wall

Beds are Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crank Whore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranked on Fashion S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion Victim S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Genesis 666 S,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love Muffin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Quarter S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PMS S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pancake Day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quarter Ounce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shrove Tuesday Finish, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Sluts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spread Eagle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Squeeze (closed project) S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tiger's Reach S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Travis Klawin
Page Views: 641 total · 13/month
Shared By: Steve Weyand on May 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

New direct start is just left of Crank Whore/Space Sluts start. Follow new bolts diagnally left and upwards to the finish at the Spread Eagle anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is located between Spread Eagle and Space Sluts.

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 New Fixe Stainless Steel glue-ins with A7 Epoxy. Shares an anchor with Spread Eagle and has 2 fixed caribiners on chains for the lower off.

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
amazing route, better than it looked from the ground. Last 1/2 is non stop pump with the crux where it should be, at the top. Feels hard 7b..

march 2015 - independant start added 1m L of crank whore starting up a crack, with new 12mm fixe glueins (red A7). This should reduce rope drag. I will take the rest of the old ones out in due course Nov 16, 2014

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