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Routes in Outer Wall

Another Vertical Nightmare S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cheeky Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Figure Four S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Flake S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jaws T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King of Fives S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Memento Mori S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memento Mori Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nemesis S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nose, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretch Armstrong T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 837 total, 12/month
Shared By: NorCalNomad on Dec 29, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Good bolts at good stances to the top, not too bad to learn to lead on if you stick clip the first bolt (my first lead climb). I'll even stick clip the first bolt sometimes since it's probably the "hardest" clip and has a gnarly (ie ankle breaking) landing/ gulley if you don't get it.

There is a crack on the rightish side of the route that can either be really useful if it's dry, if it's wet it's still useable but can be a pain. It's easier on the last bolt to the chains to just go to the right/ strait to the chains and avoid the grassy ledge.

Location

Is the next route to the left of the Arete climb (ie 2nd over from farthest right climb). The top has a little grassy ledge to the left of the chains.

Protection

4 good bolts to the chains up top.

Photos

NorCalNomad
San Francisco
 
NorCalNomad   San Francisco
 
I was going off what I had been told on the names and grades (before the guide came out) glad to have some more solid info on these climbs Mar 24, 2014
Jared Moore
Tahoe City, CA
Jared Moore   Tahoe City, CA
Hahaha...I thought this route was a 5.9! No wonder I had some difficulties. Well that brightens my day a bit, lol. Mar 22, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Thanks Floyd. Updated to the current guide book name and grade, but glad to see you're also contributing to MP's consensus rating! Mar 19, 2014
Floyd Hayes
  5.10d PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10d PG13
5.8+?!? I'm pretty sure this route is called Figure Four 5.10b in Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California, but we thought it was harder than 5.10b! Mar 17, 2014