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Routes in Outer Wall

Another Vertical Nightmare S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cheeky Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Figure Four S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Flake S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jaws T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King of Fives S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Memento Mori S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memento Mori Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nemesis S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nose, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretch Armstrong T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 263 total · 5/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Apr 22, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the detached pillar left of Cheeky Bastard, then traverse right to the top of Cheeky Bastard. The climbing is easy with a short, well protected crux. EDIT: Steve Weyand reports there is now a two-bolt anchor, which CrimperE6 subsequently removed.

Location

Starts at base of the small detached pillar about 20 feet left of Cheeky Bastard.

Protection

1 set of cams up to 4". Take long slings to set up an anchor at the top or to protect the downclimbing traverse to the anchor of Cheeky Bastard.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.9
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9
After forgetting to pull a cam off Cheeky Bastard while rappelling, I decided to climb this obvious, easy-looking route to quickly retrieve it. It's probably been climbed before, but it's not in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" and I couldn't find it online. I climbed it with Cheri Ermshar on March 15, 2014. Apr 22, 2014
Steve Weyand
Redding
Steve Weyand   Redding
This route now has a 2 bolt anchor and chains. The position of the anchor allows for some top rope variations to the right of Jaws ranging between 5.7-5.9. Jan 22, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Ok, Felt like 5.7ish on the solo. Sorry, i took down the anchor to use for another route as i didnt feel the arete left of cheeky was worth bolting.. Apr 26, 2015

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