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Routes in Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine Wall

Elephantitis S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephunky Traverse T C0
Hole in the Wall S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Memories I've Never Had S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1 T,TR C1
Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 2 T C1
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Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 843 total · 17/month
Shared By: Steve Weyand on May 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This route starts just above the "large hole in the wall", alcove. The route starts easy at around 5.7 along a crack, passing 5 bolts to the first anchor, at 10 meters. This anchor can be passed to combine the lower and upper portions of the climb, if using a 70 meter rope. The route becomes much more difficult after the first anchor with plenty of smears, crimps and layback's. Continue past 8 more bolts another 25 meters to the upper anchor. You can lower off at the anchor if using a 70 meter rope back to the base of the Pachyderm Wall./ Sunshine Wall. The rope run's smoothly for a top rope if you were wondering!

Location

Access Hole in the wall either from the 2 bolt anchor at the top or from the lower access trail.
If you are using anything shorter than a 70 meter rope, plan to take a second rope for the rap. Plan to stay and enjoy routes at either the Main Wall, Outer Wall, Approach Wall or Backside Wall routes.

Protection

The route is protected with 13 newer 5 piece Powers 3/8' bolts and Fixe hangers. The anchors are equipped with plated chains, quick links and spring shuts. Even though the lower section is a crack, the FA party opted to bolt protect due to the fragile nature of the limestone. This is typical in limestone sport climbing. If your so inclined to use trad pro and pass the bolts, beware a fall could fracture this brittle limestone and change a great route.

Topping out this route is a bit sketchy due to the dirt and loose debris above the anchors. A chain around a tree can be used as an anchor if you choose to belay the second above the anchors. Watch for your rope dragging debris and potentially dropping it on climber below.

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
awesome route. I was back in the verdon for a minute! Must do for a local..F6B/+ Nov 2, 2014
Muscrat

  5.11a
Muscrat    
  5.11a
Fun line, more about technique than about pump, as so many of the lines at shredding are (about pump). Good place to get good at thin moves. You can also aid this line....for those interested. Goes A1 with a couple of free moves. Feb 28, 2015

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