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Routes in The Main Wall

Beds are Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crank Whore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranked on Fashion S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion Victim S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Genesis 666 S,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love Muffin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Quarter S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PMS S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pancake Day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quarter Ounce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shrove Tuesday Finish, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Sluts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spread Eagle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Squeeze (closed project) S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tiger's Reach S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 710 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Sep 27, 2011 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Another great route! This is a pure stamina route, no real cruxes! In my honest opinion, I don't think this route is any harder than Crank Whore, however I hesitate to drop two letter grades from its original rating.

Location

The route directly to the right of Crank Whore, begins just right of a bush on jugs to a high first bolt. Bolts with chains for an anchor

Protection

Bolts 8 or 9

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
new glueins for the lower half. (1st 3 bolts)

I couldnt remove the original 1st expansion bolt Mar 29, 2016
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
French 6c, high 1st clip. more intermediates than crank whore Nov 2, 2014
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
 
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
 
I climbed this today again and I've decided that it is about on par with Crank Whore in terms of difficulty. By the time you get to the height of the Crank Whore crux on Fashion Victim, the difficulty has eased and its a quick romp to the top. A great route! Oct 13, 2011