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Routes in Opposite Main Wall

Abstinence S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Archaic Revival S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Food S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chastity Belt S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chopper Copper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
English Breakfast S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Exit ArĂȘte Right S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gateway Drug S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Terrys Angels S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wintu Wall S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
project groove S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
shred or dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Paul Bernard & Addison Cory
Page Views: 587 total, 14/month
Shared By: Steve Weyand on May 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located directly opposite of Spread Eagle. It is near the entrance to the cave routes, located on the left side pillar.

This route was a TR route for many years, but was difficult to access. It was bolted and led in 2012 with expansion bolts in poor quality limestone, giving it a bad reputation as dirty and dangerous. After two solid seasons with minimal rain and heavy use from the locals, it has cleaned up quite nice and now it has new glue ins to make it that much more safe.

Start on the right side arete and trend toward the left to reach the large owl hole, then go straight up for a more challenging climb. You can cheat around the left side arĂȘte to the anchors if you start to sketch for a .10a finish . The direct adds a letter grade or two for a 5.10b/c

Location

Opposite of Spread Eagle

Protection

5 new "2015" Fixe stainless steel 1/2" X 6" glue-ins with A7 glue thanks to Dan H.

2 open cold shuts with a 3rd bolt between them with a delta link for a backup on the lower off.

Photos

Superdavinit
Santa Rosa, California
Superdavinit   Santa Rosa, California
There appear to be 2 routes on this face now. Not sure what the left route is because Chastity Belt is the right one. Anyone know or want to claim it? Now Im seeing "Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Party"... Someone cant get their mind off gay sex with these names. Is that it? Apr 29, 2016
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
5 new fixe glueins, 10mm x 150mm A7 glue
F6c direct finish Apr 19, 2015