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Hemingway Buttress - E Face L

California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This popular section of the wall extends from More Funky than Junky to The Sun Also Rises and is home to lots of moderate crack routes with a few face climbs in the harder grades.

Getting There

Park in the large paved lot off the main road and follow the signed path to the wall. The approach time is around 10 minutes from the car.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
Sea Monkeys
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Ant Farm
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 3
Horn Dog
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
More Funky Than Junky
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
The Roadrunner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Smoke-a-Bowl
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Rock Wren
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Merry-Go-Round Broke Down
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 145
Funky Dung
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 452
Overseer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Overseer Direct
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
The Old Man and the Arete
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 413
Dung Fu
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 26
Pig in Heat
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,016
White Lightning
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 436
Poodles are People Too
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 5
Man's Best Friend
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 88
Poodlesby
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Coyote Bait
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 18
Such a Poodle
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 13
Golden Years
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 278
Feltonian Physics
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
Gift Wrapped
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 376
Prepackaged
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 3
The Sun Also Rises
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sea Monkeys
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Ant Farm
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Horn Dog
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
More Funky Than Junky
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Roadrunner
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Smoke-a-Bowl
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rock Wren
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Merry-Go-Round Broke Down
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Funky Dung
 145
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Overseer
 452
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Overseer Direct
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Old Man and the Arete
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Dung Fu
 413
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pig in Heat
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad
White Lightning
 1,016
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Poodles are People Too
 436
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Man's Best Friend
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Poodlesby
 88
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Coyote Bait
 40
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Such a Poodle
 18
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Golden Years
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
Feltonian Physics
 278
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gift Wrapped
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Prepackaged
 376
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Sun Also Rises
 3
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A 70m rope just makes it to the ground for a toprope belay on this wall.
[Hide Photo] A 70m rope just makes it to the ground for a toprope belay on this wall.
A 70m rope just makes it to the ground for a toprope belay on this wall.
[Hide Photo] A 70m rope just makes it to the ground for a toprope belay on this wall.
"Prepackaged".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Prepackaged". Photo by Blitzo.
"Prepackaged".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Prepackaged". Photo by Blitzo.
Chuckwalla showing us some beta at the Hemingway Buttress
[Hide Photo] Chuckwalla showing us some beta at the Hemingway Buttress
Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.
[Hide Photo] Geoff at the crux. He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.
Eric cruising White Lightning
[Hide Photo] Eric cruising White Lightning
Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.
[Hide Photo] Geoff at the crux. He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.
Eric cruising White Lightning
[Hide Photo] Eric cruising White Lightning
Meadow, the gatekeeper of clean ethics and snacktime, is aaaaaalways watching...
[Hide Photo] Meadow, the gatekeeper of clean ethics and snacktime, is aaaaaalways watching...
Nic at the big foot rest
[Hide Photo] Nic at the big foot rest
Nic at the big foot rest
[Hide Photo] Nic at the big foot rest