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Elevation: 1,664 ft
GPS: 38.0607, -81.0671
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 170,225 total · 822/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area is a huge downstream portion of Endless Wall, just like Beauty Mountain is the farthest upstream section.  Whatever its designation, there is amazing sport and trad here, from 5.5 to 5.14, and it features the same quality Nuttal Sandstone that makes Endless Wall great.

Sub-areas are listed from climber's left-to-right, or downstream-to-upstream.

Getting There Suggest change

There are two ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the obvious pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in. Walk slightly up the road to a wide old dirt path that goes downhill, eventually taking a sharp right into the woods. After crossing a small creek, do NOT keep following the creek down into the gorge. Keep heading on the trail until you see cliffline.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

107 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 154
Ritz Cracker
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 123
Two Bag Face
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Crescenta
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 139
Springboard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Two-Tone Arete
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 72
Triple Treat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Surge Complex
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 168
Wild Seed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Grand Space
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 75
Fall Line
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Jug Rash
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 26
Thieves in the Temple
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Portly Gentleman's Route
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 17
Welcome to Conditioning
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Just Send It
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ritz Cracker 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 154
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Two Bag Face 3) Workmen's Buttress
 123
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Crescenta 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Springboard 7) Orchard Wall
 139
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Two-Tone Arete 6) Thieves Area
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Triple Treat 7) Orchard Wall
 72
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Surge Complex 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Wild Seed 5) Wild Seed Area
 168
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Grand Space 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Fall Line 9a) Fern Creek Falls
 75
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jug Rash 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Thieves in the Temple 6) Thieves Area
 26
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Portly Gentleman's Route 7) Orchard Wall
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Welcome to Conditioning 4) Just Send It Wall
 17
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Just Send It 4) Just Send It Wall
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern Buttress »

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