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Areas in Fern Buttress

Arm Forces Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Fern Creek Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Fern Creek Falls 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Just Send It Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Monolith Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Orchard Wall 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Ritz Cracker Area 12 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Star Trek Wall 9 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Thieves Area 6 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Wild Seed Area 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Workmen's Buttress 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 1,664 ft
GPS: 38.061, -81.067 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 48,310 total, 372/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

Description

Before the Williams guidebooks, Fern Buttress was considered part of Endless Wall.

Now, with many quality routes to its credit, and clear boundaries of Fayette Station Road on one end, and Fern Creek on the other, Fern Buttress has grown to be known as a destination crag all its own.

Whether it's the super clean, awe-inspiring bolted sport lines like Welcome to Conditioning and Just Send It, or the plethora of fantastic cracks, or the off-the-beaten-path short classics, Fern Buttress can be a welcome respite to the overwhelming crowds that can sometimes be found at moderate NRG sport crags. If you're new to placing gear, enjoy aesthetic classics, or if you enjoy tiny holds on immaculate faces, you'll find yourself right at home here.
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the designated pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V10 7C+
F5
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hysteria
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ritz Cracker
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bag Face
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescenta
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fragile Ego System
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anal Clenching Adventures
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triple Treat
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Springboard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two-Tone Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wild Seed
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Line
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thieves in the Temple
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Portly Gentleman's Route
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Welcome to Conditioning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
F5 Fern Creek Boulders V10 7C+ Boulder
Hysteria Orchard Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ritz Cracker Ritz Cracker Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Two Bag Face Workmen's Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Crescenta Ritz Cracker Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fragile Ego System Wild Seed Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Anal Clenching Adventures Orchard Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Triple Treat Orchard Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Springboard Orchard Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Two-Tone Arete Thieves Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wild Seed Wild Seed Area 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fall Line Fern Creek Falls 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Thieves in the Temple Thieves Area 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Portly Gentleman's Route Orchard Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Welcome to Conditioning Just Send It Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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