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Areas in Fern Buttress

1) Arm Forces Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
10) Fern Creek Falls 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
2) Monolith Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
3) Workmen's Buttress 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
4) Just Send It Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
5) Wild Seed Area 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
6) Thieves Area 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
7) Orchard Wall 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
8) Ritz Cracker Area 13 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
9) Star Trek Wall 9 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Though with a different approach, this area is technically the farthest downstream portion of Endless Wall, just like Beauty Mountain is the farthest upstream section.  Whatever its designation, there is amazing sport and trad here, from 5.5 to 5.14, and it features the same quality Nuttal Sandstone that makes Endless Wall great.

Sub-areas are listed from climber's left-to-right, or downstream-to-upstream.

Getting There

There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the designated pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Hysteria
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Ritz Cracker
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 62
Two Bag Face
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Crescenta
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Anal Clenching Adventures
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Triple Treat
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 86
Springboard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 51
Fragile Ego System
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Two-Tone Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 91
Wild Seed
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
Morning Dew
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 40
Fall Line
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Thieves in the Temple
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Portly Gentleman's Route
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Welcome to Conditioning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hysteria 7) Orchard Wall
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ritz Cracker 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Two Bag Face 3) Workmen's Buttress
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Crescenta 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Anal Clenching Adventures 7) Orchard Wall
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Triple Treat 7) Orchard Wall
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Springboard 7) Orchard Wall
 86
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fragile Ego System 5) Wild Seed Area
 51
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Two-Tone Arete 6) Thieves Area
 34
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wild Seed 5) Wild Seed Area
 91
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Morning Dew 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 32
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fall Line 10) Fern Creek Falls
 40
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Thieves in the Temple 6) Thieves Area
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Portly Gentleman's Route 7) Orchard Wall
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Welcome to Conditioning 4) Just Send It Wall
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern Buttress »

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