Elevation: 1,664 ft
GPS: 38.061, -81.067 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 98,344 total · 609/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

This area is a huge downstream portion of Endless Wall, just like Beauty Mountain is the farthest upstream section.  Whatever its designation, there is amazing sport and trad here, from 5.5 to 5.14, and it features the same quality Nuttal Sandstone that makes Endless Wall great.

Sub-areas are listed from climber's left-to-right, or downstream-to-upstream.

Getting There

There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the obvious pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in. Walk slightly up the road to a wide old dirt path that goes downhill, eventually taking a sharp right into the woods. After crossing a small creek, do NOT keep following the creek down into the gorge. Keep heading on the trail until you see cliffline.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

78 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fern Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Hysteria
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 111
Ritz Cracker
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 88
Two Bag Face
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Crescenta
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
Anal Clenching Adventures
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Triple Treat
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 109
Springboard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
Fragile Ego System
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Two-Tone Arete
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
New Tricks for the Old Dog
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 112
Wild Seed
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Morning Dew
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Fly Girls
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 50
Fall Line
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 13
Thieves in the Temple
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hysteria 7) Orchard Wall
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ritz Cracker 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 111
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Two Bag Face 3) Workmen's Buttress
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Crescenta 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Anal Clenching Adventures 7) Orchard Wall
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Triple Treat 7) Orchard Wall
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Springboard 7) Orchard Wall
 109
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fragile Ego System 5) Wild Seed Area
 61
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Two-Tone Arete 6) Thieves Area
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
New Tricks for the Old Dog 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 51
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wild Seed 5) Wild Seed Area
 112
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Morning Dew 8) Ritz Cracker Area
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fly Girls 5) Wild Seed Area
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fall Line 9a) Fern Creek Falls
 50
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Thieves in the Temple 6) Thieves Area
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Fern Buttress »

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