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Routes in Workmen's Buttress

Mr. Workman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Preservation of Wildlife T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toss that Beat in the Garbage Can T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Two Bag Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Workman's Comp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Phil Heller, Alex Carr
Page Views: 2,869 total · 35/month
Shared By: Sam Stephens on May 8, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Climb up the chimney formed by a detached block. Step left off the top of the block onto the face, clip a glue-in bolt, and then head into a small crack, finding gear as you go. From the seam, pull up onto a sizeable ledge. Follow smallish holds up to large horizontals trending left, toward the arête. Move across the arête to the left side, take in the view and exposure and follow generous but spaced horizontals to bolted anchors at the top.

The direct start to this route is R rated unless you have some very large gear (Big Bro) to plug in the 20-25 foot chimney to start. This R start can be circumvented by walking uphill to climber's right ten feet, climbing the short dihedral to the top of the block, then traversing left. There is no gear, so technically it's still PG13, but much easier climbing than the direct start.

Location:

Prominent arête about 10 minutes upstream of the Fayette Station parking. Look for a detached flake that starts at the top of a small hill in a corner.

Protection:

Up to 3". One glue in bolt. Two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
I protected the start using a small nut on the old hangerless bolt right of the crack. There's a short bit of unprotected face mid-way up, but not bad. If you stay right of the arete the whole way, it's a bit more runout, with some harder moves above your gear, but a nice variation. May 29, 2017
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
If you want to climb the layback block and protect it, take a blue Big Bro with you. It is a bomber placement a little over halfway up the block, and can be placed from a solid stance. Oct 18, 2016
Olivia Stavros-Tracy
Charlotte, NC
 
Olivia Stavros-Tracy   Charlotte, NC
 
LOVED this route, only R because of the first 15 feet of an unprotectable crack, the rest eats gear. Excellent route with one of the best views in the gorge! Oct 17, 2016

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