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Routes in Orchard Wall

Anal Clenching Adventures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bisect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hysteria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lewd Operator T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Optical Illusion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Portly Gentleman's Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shiny Faces T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Springboard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Sex Package S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triple Treat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Phil Heller, Alex Karr, 1986
Page Views: 860 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 29, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

If the quality of climbing that exists on the first 30 feet continued for the entire route, this would be classic! Unfortunately the upper portion is a bit crumbly and dirty. This route would benefit greatly from more traffic. Climb up the thin bouldery start making use of the small but positive holds to reach a large ledge (crux). Traverse left to gain access to a dihedral in white rock. Follow for 15 ft and pull a small overhang and continue up a finger crack in a dihedral to reach the large roof. Traverse out left to the lip of the roof and pull through a v-shaped slot. Follow the crack systems over a lichen covered face to the top. Beware of rope drag as you pull the large roof near the end. Extend slings on the lower portion of the route.

Location

Head downstream toward the orchard wall proper, just past Ritz Cracker, as you round the first corner, locate the very thin crack on a smooth grey face.

Protection

Very small pro for the bottom, standard rack for the rest. No anchors at top, trees.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
To get down with a single 60M rope, just walk 50 ft upstream and locate the top anchors on Ritz Cracker. Jun 20, 2017