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Routes in 8) Ritz Cracker Area

A Wild Hair T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beech, Beeech, Beeeech! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Constant Velocity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crescenta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire and Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofer's Retreat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jacuzzi Bop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug Rash T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Dew S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Tricks for the Old Dog S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasure and Pain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ritz Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S&M T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surge Complex T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weight, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Blaze Davies, Bill Wilson
Page Views: 117 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route would be much more popular if the start was more obvious. Don't be deterred, the upper portion is sweet!! Start by climbing the low angle featured face trending up and right to gain a ledge about 20 Ft. below an overhang. Climb up the face passing 2 bolts to reach the overhang(crux). Pass the overhang on the left side and continue to the top. The moves at the crux are a bit reachy but the holds are really good.

Location

This route is not on the Orchard wall proper but just right of the start to Ritz Cracker. Can be found in the Orchard Buttress section of the guidebook.

Protection

Mostly small gear, especially for the opening slabby moves. 2 bolts.

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I think the route description is a little misleading. The first bolt on this route is about 15 feet off the deck and can be clipped from a small ledge with a thorn bush growing on it. Moving around this bush detracted from the route quality substantially and I felt that the crux was moving past the first bolt, but part of that was due to everything being covered in lichen. That said, the top portion of the route is fantastic, and the two cruxes are bolt protected. Jan 24, 2018

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