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Routes in Ritz Cracker Area

A Wild Hair T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beech, Beeech, Beeeech! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crescenta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire and Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofer's Retreat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jacuzzi Bop T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jug Rash T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Dew S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Tricks for the Old Dog S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasure and Pain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ritz Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S&M T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surge Complex T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weight, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kenny Parker
Page Views: 224 total, 5/month
Shared By: camhead on Apr 6, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a very worthy mixed line, though it could use a rebolting job. Start up a lichened, smooth face coming in from the right (uphill) with a few heady moves before the first bolt. There are big moves and weird sequences for the first three bolts. At a pretty good stance, you get some gear in, then bust up a bulge through some cool huecos, more gear, and one more bolt into a REALLY cool crux sequence. At the top, you move right into a shallow dihedral.

Location

Just left of the 5.6 corner "Beech, Beeeech, Beeeeech!" and perpendicularly facing the obvious crack, Surge Complex.

Protection

Four bolts, plus bolted anchors. Some supplemental gear is definitely needed; I used a couple .5 camalots and one blue tcu.

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