PRINT: Rock Climbing in Fern Buttress, The New River Gorge Region

Fern Buttress

W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge Proper

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This area is a huge downstream portion of Endless Wall, just like Beauty Mountain is the farthest upstream section. Whatever its designation, there is amazing sport and trad here, from 5.5 to 5.14, and it features the same quality Nuttal Sandstone that makes Endless Wall great.

Sub-areas are listed from climber's left-to-right, or downstream-to-upstream.

Getting There

There are two ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the obvious pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in. Walk slightly up the road to a wide old dirt path that goes downhill, eventually taking a sharp right into the woods. After crossing a small creek, do NOT keep following the creek down into the gorge. Keep heading on the trail until you see cliffline.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

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Topping out...recommend top belaying so you can enjoy the view awhile!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

K D
Philadelphia, PA

If you're going to Ritz Cracker or Star Trek and you're parking at the Fern Creek trailhead on Lansing-Edmond Rd, I would recommend not to take the ladders down. Instead, take a right turn from the main trail on to the trail a bit before the bridge and rap down from the cliff. The trail from the ladders to Star Trek Wall seems to be informal, and the best path can be confusing and hard to find if it's your first time there (like it was for my party). Plus, it involves some light scrambling and walking across slippery rocks across Fern Creek. The trail at the top is much more straightforward and much easier, although there are a few cliffside spots where you should be careful. Jul 8, 2019

Gavin K
Philadelphia PA

I agree with Keegan Day's previous comment. It was my first time attempting to find this wall, and the trail from the ladders to Star Trek was covered with leaves as it was October and soon it was very difficult to navigate.

When we attempted to get to Workman's/Orchard wall, we parked at Fayette Station pull-off. We only found one path that traveled between two clear 'No Trespassing" Signs. My partner and I called Waterstone and they mentioned they are working with the landowners, (maybe to make an official trail?) and so thus we were ok to access it that way. We went down trail and immediately right like this approach beta from MP and the guidebooks, and were once again lost amongst the dense fallen leaves. Eventually with some difficult uphill bushwhack, we found the wall. Some amazing climbs in this area! I hope there can be a small trail sign put up soon.

Hope this can help any newcomers looking to access this wall for the first time. Oct 27, 2022