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Routes in Thieves Area

Baptism by Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brawn Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emerald Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Larceny T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rolling Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thieves in the Temple S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tongue-in-Groove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two-Tone Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: D. Reed
Page Views: 618 total, 14/month
Shared By: BrianWS on May 5, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Classic three-tiered climbing. Start off on a series of long, bouldery moves through sharp pockets and positive oxide jugs. At the horizontal break, begin a cruxy, slightly overhung traverse up and left. Finish on a devious sequence through the barely less-than vertical face, with a traverse back right to the shuts.
Given 12a in the Thompson guide and 12b in the Williams guide. Realistically, it's probably up there with Chunky Monkey and Jesus & Tequila in terms of "12b-ishness" -- definitely a very proud onsight.

Location

First bolted line around the corner (climbers right) of Emerald Dance. There is often a pile of cheater stones below the starting holds at the lip of a low roof. Rap or lower off of solid-but-aged shuts.

Protection

8 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor. Tightly bolted for the first four bolts and a bit sparser once the angle lessens - scary fall potential going for the fifth or sixth bolt (tree + pendulum).

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Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
 
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
 
This climb is real. Aside from the one resting jug, the climbing is so sustained. The face climbing up top is perfect rock climbing on beautiful white rock. A tighter than normal belay keeps you out of the possible butthole impaling tree - but even the falling at bolts 5 and 6 I was still a good 8 to 10 feet above the tree. Aug 3, 2015