Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: D. Reed
Page Views: 1,340 total · 18/month
Shared By: BrianWS on May 5, 2014
Admins: SmithVentures, Pnelson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

Classic three-tiered climbing. Start off on a series of long, bouldery moves through sharp pockets and positive oxide jugs. At the horizontal break, begin a cruxy, slightly overhung traverse up and left. Finish on a devious sequence through the barely less-than vertical face, with a traverse back right to the shuts.
Given 12a in the Thompson guide and 12b in the Williams guide. Realistically, it's probably up there with Chunky Monkey and Jesus & Tequila in terms of "12b-ishness" -- definitely a very proud onsight.

Location

First bolted line around the corner (climbers right) of Emerald Dance. There is often a pile of cheater stones below the starting holds at the lip of a low roof. Rap or lower off of solid-but-aged shuts.

Protection

8 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor. Tightly bolted for the first four bolts and a bit sparser once the angle lessens - scary fall potential going for the fifth or sixth bolt (tree + pendulum).

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