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Routes in Orchard Wall

Anal Clenching Adventures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bisect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hysteria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lewd Operator T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Optical Illusion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Portly Gentleman's Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shiny Faces T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Springboard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Sex Package S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triple Treat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alex Carr 1988
Page Views: 1,486 total · 16/month
Shared By: camhead on Apr 5, 2010 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Ultra classic hard trad route!

Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner. Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it! There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral. From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall. Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps. Two-bolt anchor.

Location

One of the first routes you walk under approaching the Orchard Wall from downstream end.

Protection

hands to tiny. Extra red camalots worked very well for me throughout this climb. Option of a wide piece (#4) in the horizontal at the roof. Bolted anchor.

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SmithVentures
Fayetteville, West Virginia
SmithVentures   Fayetteville, West Virginia
Don't bother taking a #4....it's extremely unnecessary and in the way. Took the big whips today, hopefully this thing is going down very soon (crispy fall conditions) Aug 6, 2017
Burly, but super fun. you can pull on gear through the crux if need be (there was a need!). Give this thing a burn! Nov 28, 2016
Watch the rope-cutting roof on this awesome route. The safe, although scary, strategy is to place gear in the roof and at the lip (bomber) and then climb the crux, avoiding the temptation to place thin gear on the final "headwall" stretch. If you blow it you'll take a big whip, but your rope won't be pulled against the sharp lip of the roof.

As for TR'ing, I don't know if there's really a good way to do it. I would probably pull the rope through the gear and TR straight from the anchor, sans directionals. You'll take a big swing if you fall before the crux seam, but it'll be plenty safe.

Sick route by any measure. One of the best I got on in our short trip out here. Oct 20, 2014

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