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Routes in Orchard Wall

Anal Clenching Adventures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bisect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hysteria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lewd Operator T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Optical Illusion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Portly Gentleman's Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shiny Faces T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Springboard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Sex Package S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triple Treat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Nick Brash and Doug Reed
Page Views: 3,634 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Three mini-roofs make this climb an ultra classic.

Tape-up and start this climb off on a low roof, and continue up to two more!

Really a classic, super-pumpy to place pro. A broken hold in 2014 may or may not have made this line a touch more difficult.

Location

Middle route of Orchard Wall. Under triple roofs.

Protection

Up to #4 Camalot. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
  5.10b/c
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
  5.10b/c
This is one of those excellent climbs where the on-sight is likely going to be WAY harder for most folks than the redpoint due to the trickery required at the low crux. It ain't obvious, but its great fun! Nov 7, 2016
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
Be very careful with the rope. It's easy for it to get sucked into the crack in the first roof, burying your cams and causing the rope to get stuck, when you lower off the anchors. Oct 27, 2016
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
Not any more difficult than 20 years ago. Still a burly move past the first roof. A #1bd works perfect for protecting the crux move. Watch rope drag on this one. Long slings are useful. Anchors just after the last roof up and to the left. Oct 28, 2015

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