Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry (1985)
Page Views: 1,864 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Round the corner to climber's right of Shiny Faces for the start to this route- immediately to the right of a roof/overhang.  Look for a fairly sheer face with horizontals that's quite Gunks-esque.  The hardest moves are right off the ground.  Follow the horizontals for about 35-40 feet until you reach a comfy ledge.  This ends the 5.8 climbing.  From here, choose your own adventure for roughly 5.5 climbing for the second half of the route until you reach the bolted anchor and a gorgeous view.

Location

Continue upstream from Orchard wall proper. You will see the Shiny Faces offwidth/roof just before you reach Hysteria.

Protection

This takes all kinds of gear. Tri-cams are helpful for the many horizontals, but small cams work well too.  It'll take anything from .1 to .5 but definitely more on the small end.  The upper part takes just about anything you have on you.  There are a few holds that can be slung as well.   Bolted anchor.

Photos

John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.8
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.8
It does feel a bit Gunks-ish I suppose. The face down low is definitely the crux. In fact, the opening moves are probably the hardest to the first horizontal.

The upper portion is just a super fun jug haul and tops out with a good view.

Definitely recommended. May 30, 2016