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Routes in 7) Orchard Wall

Anal Clenching Adventures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bisect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grand Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hysteria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lewd Operator T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Optical Illusion T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Portly Gentleman's Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shiny Faces T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Springboard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Sex Package S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triple Treat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry (1985)
Page Views: 1,794 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a unique climb for the New. Very much feels like it belongs in the Gunks. Begin at the right end of a roof and follow the face to the top passing many horizontals. The beginning wanders a bit. The hardest part is the first 20 Ft or so, from this point the features get very unique and are really positive. This might not be a great lead for someone breaking into the 5.8 grade, but it's not a hard 5.8 either.

Location

Continue upstream from Orchard wall proper. You will see the Shiny Faces offwidth/roof just before you reach Hysteria.

Protection

This takes all kinds of gear. Tri-cams are helpful for the many horizontals, but small cams work well too. Bolted anchor.

Photos

John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.8
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.8
It does feel a bit Gunks-ish I suppose. The face down low is definitely the crux. In fact, the opening moves are probably the hardest to the first horizontal.

The upper portion is just a super fun jug haul and tops out with a good view.

Definitely recommended. May 30, 2016

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