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Hysteria
5.8,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 82
votes
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry, Rick Fairtrace 1985
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Fern Buttress
> 7) Orchard Wall
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Round the corner to climber's right of Shiny Faces for the start to this route- immediately to the right of a roof/overhang. Look for a fairly sheer face with horizontals that's quite Gunks-esque. The hardest moves are right off the ground. Follow the horizontals for about 35-40 feet until you reach a comfy ledge. This ends the 5.8 climbing. From here, choose your own adventure for roughly 5.5 climbing for the second half of the route until you reach the bolted anchor and a gorgeous view.
Location
Continue upstream from Orchard wall proper. You will see the Shiny Faces offwidth/roof just before you reach Hysteria.
Protection
This takes all kinds of gear. Tri-cams are helpful for the many horizontals, but small cams work well too. It'll take anything from .1 to .5 but definitely more on the small end. The upper part takes just about anything you have on you. There are a few holds that can be slung as well. Bolted anchor.
![Belaying from the anchor of Hysteria on a perfect day]()
[Hide Photo] Belaying from the anchor of Hysteria on a perfect day
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Boulder, CO
The upper portion is just a super fun jug haul and tops out with a good view.
Definitely recommended. May 30, 2016