All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Fern Buttress > 6) Thieves Area

Two-Tone Arete

Name: Two-Tone Arete
Rating: 3.5

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in 6) Thieves Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Acharya T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Baptism by Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brawn Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cold November Rain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Emerald Dance T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Escape Room S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Gone 'til November T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Grand Larceny T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Peanut Butter and Pineapples T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rolling Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Samba Pa Ti T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spiritual Reach Around T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Thieves in the Temple S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Tongue-in-Groove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Two-Tone Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Use Your Power S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

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Type:	Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
GPS:	38.06239, -81.06757
FA:	Paul Sullivan, 1992
Page Views:	3,363 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Steck on Jun 8, 2008
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This route alone is worth coming to this area for! An easier version of Mutiny at Summersville. Climb the arete passing 3 bolts to reach a small overhang under a large ledge. Pull up over the bulge using the arete to gain a rest stance. If you are tall, you can traverse out right first to make the 4th clip, if not, you have to climb the arete and reach around right to make the clip. This may be committing if 5.10b is approaching your limit. Small cams can be placed at the ledge if this move concerns you. Continue up the white face to reach a second overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) to reach a some good holds to clip the shuts.

On hot summer days, this route stays in the shade and the large offwidth crack to the left serves as a natural air conditioner!

Location

Continue upstream past the Wild Seed area. Arete is located just to the left of Emerald Dance. To the right of a large strange looking tree.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts. If you are concerned about the large space between the 3rd and 4th bolt, gear could be easily placed here(green/yellow alien). Don't let this keep you from doing this classic route!