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Routes in Thieves Area

Baptism by Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brawn Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emerald Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Larceny T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rolling Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thieves in the Temple S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tongue-in-Groove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two-Tone Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Paul Sullivan, 1992
Page Views: 1,429 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 8, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route alone is worth coming to this area for! An easier version of Mutiny at Summersville. Climb the arete passing 3 bolts to reach a small overhang under a large ledge. Pull up over the bulge using the arete to gain a rest stance. If you are tall, you can traverse out right first to make the 4th clip, if not, you have to climb the arete and reach around right to make the clip. This may be committing if 5.10b is approaching your limit. Small cams can be placed at the ledge if this move concerns you. Continue up the white face to reach a second overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) to reach a some good holds to clip the shuts.

On hot summer days, this route stays in the shade and the large offwidth crack to the left serves as a natural air conditioner!

Location

Continue upstream past the Gonad Wall. Arete is located just to the left of Emerald Dance. To the right of a large strange looking tree.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts. If you are concerned about the large space between the 3rd and 4th bolt, gear could be easily placed here(green/yellow alien). Don't let this keep you from doing this classic route!

Photos

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Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV
An example of a properly graded route. Dec 5, 2017