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Routes in Thieves Area

Baptism by Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brawn Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emerald Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Larceny T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rolling Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thieves in the Temple S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tongue-in-Groove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two-Tone Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Don Blume 1986
Page Views: 128 total · 2/month
Shared By: Kristan Markey on Apr 28, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Long wandering, Gunk-like pitch. Starting up the twin cracks, make some delicate moves (above the 2nd piece of pro) to stance. Continue up a seam until you are below the roof, then traverse right then up again. Belay stance has a wonderful view of the bridge and gorge.

Descend from the ring bolts with a single 60m rope. Otherwise, use a a 50m rope and head straight down to the anchors for Thieves in a temple.

Location

Starts just to the right of Two-Tone Arete. Start at the twin cracks, but use the left one. Route wanders right about halfway up.

Protection

Standard rack, focus on TCUs/C3s. Bolt anchors (these are new since the Williams guide). If 5.9 is your limit on lead, this route will feel spicy, especially at the bottom.

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