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Routes in Thieves Area

Baptism by Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brawn Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emerald Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Larceny T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rolling Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sometimes a Great Notion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thieves in the Temple S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tongue-in-Groove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two-Tone Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kenny Parker 1989
Page Views: 227 total, 4/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Exciting would be an understatement! This route will surely test your mettle. The second clip may be the most challenging part of the route. Good luck!

Start below the first bolt on some sloped rails. Gain a good mail slot below the first bolt. Plug a TCU and head up to the bolt. Clip the bolt and explode to the large sloping ramp feature that runs up to the second bolt. Sustained crimping and difficult footwork leads to the second bolt and possibly the crux of the route. Figure out how to clip it and not take the big fall onto the first bolt. Work your way to a large ledge feature up and right, this may be the onsight crux as it is very confusing. Once on the nice perch, reach way left to get a slotted #1 Camalot, which can also be backed up with a #2. Pump up to the flake feature just below the third bolt and make some steep moves to get to the nice clipping stance. The tree may need to be pruned to make this section more visible. Make a few more moves up and right into a groove feature to gain the two shut anchor. Take a deep breathe now that the wild ride is over.

Location

The route is just left of a large crack and about 50' right of Emerald Dance. Look for the obvious sloping ramp feature that goes up and right between the first two bolts. 60m rope will easily get you down.

Protection

A few smaller TCU's, #1 and #2 Camalots, QD's for the 3 bolts, and some shoulder slings to keep it running smooth. Two older shuts at the top will get you down. There was surface corrosion, but they seem to be in good shape.

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