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Areas in South Island

Canterbury 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Castle Hill 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Charleston 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Darrans, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Falcons Roost 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Flock hill 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Frasers Beach 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Long Beach 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Marlborough 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Mount Somers 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Mt. Cook 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 8
Nelson-Tasman 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Otago 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Paynes Ford 1 / 21 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Pohara 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Port Hills 8 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
Queenstown 1 / 29 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Remarkables, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Southland 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Wanaka 16 / 82 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 98
West Coast 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 899 ft
GPS: -43.898, 171.299 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 47,970 total, 362/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 30, 2007 with updates
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Description

The south island has a wide range of climbing opportunities from bouldering on the east coast, sport cragging in the north and on the west coast, and alpine experiences in the mountain range along the western coast. There are loads of other non-climbing activities to plan around your visits to the spread out crags. Make sure your check out the fly fishing, sea kayaking, and trekking while you are in the country.

Make sure you pickup a copy of "South Island ROCK" by Lindsay Main and Tim Wethey. This was the best reference for the whole island that I found. There are also a number of smaller guide books out there for individual crags.

Getting There

There are many short flights from the the northern island to the major cities in the south.

237 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Fickle Finger of Fate
Boulder
V3 6A
lung arete
Boulder
V4 6B
Beautiful Edges
Boulder
V4 6B
Think Tank
Boulder
V4 6B
Cauldron
Boulder
V5 6C
Acid Test
Boulder
V6+ 7A
The Unrepeatable
Boulder
V7 7A+
Tuppimaster
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Racing in the Streets
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Bye Cream-Poofters
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Mission
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Temples of Stone
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Headbanger's Arete
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
1080 and the Letter G
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rawhide
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fickle Finger of Fate Castle Hill > Spittle Hill V1 5 Boulder
lung arete Castle Hill > Quantum Field V3 6A Boulder
Beautiful Edges Castle Hill > Spittle Hill V4 6B Boulder
Think Tank Castle Hill > Quantum Field V4 6B Boulder
Cauldron Castle Hill > Quantum Field V4 6B Boulder
Acid Test Paynes Ford > First Watering Hole V5 6C Boulder
The Unrepeatable Castle Hill > Quantum Field V6+ 7A Boulder
Tuppimaster Castle Hill > Spittle Hill V7 7A+ Boulder
Racing in the Streets Charleston > Wonder Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Good Bye Cream-Poofters Paynes Ford > Track 1 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Mission Queenstown > Wye Creek 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Temples of Stone Paynes Ford > Track 2 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Headbanger's Arete Wanaka > Main Cliff 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
1080 and the Letter G Paynes Ford > Track 6 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Rawhide Paynes Ford > Track 1 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Island »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
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I was advised not to bother with bringing rock gear this time of year as it would only be wet and cold and it was "too early for skiing".... All of which couldn't be further from the truth:)!
New Zealand roadside cragging rocks and is of high quality and so beautiful with the seaside vistas nearby!
Perfect temps and cragging conditions right now! Kiwiland rocks!!:) so beautiful!! Jul 3, 2016
Steve Skelton
Lyttelton, New Zealand
Steve Skelton   Lyttelton, New Zealand
A bit of a heads up, the beta herin is not entirely accurate. The NZ equivalent of MP is climbnz.org.nz/ and you'll find most routes there. Jun 2, 2013

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