GPS: -40.8387, 172.80119
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Shared By: James23 on Aug 8, 2007
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Description

Limestone sport crag with a good variety of routes, I think about 250. Some great overhangs, but mostly vertical with a few slabs. Most of the belays are somewhat shaded, but you have a wonderful view of the green countryside at the top. There is an additional cliff 15 minutes away with sunny, open routes directly across the road from the sea.

Also, check out Acid Test....a wicked inverted boulder problem over a glacial stream, on the opposite side of the road. First 15 ft is easy, but I was told there were only a handful of people who'd made it over the tip.

I'll add some more specifics once I find my travel journal, but feel free to edit, as my posting will never be even remotely complete.

Getting There

North end of south island. Main access trail has numbered trails leading off of it, making finding routes super easy. There was a private climbers camp that was just a couple min walk from the crag.

55 Total Climbs

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Location: Paynes Ford Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Paynes Ford

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 7
Acid Test
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Blobbet
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Romancing the stone
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Doo-Little
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 15
Good Bye Cream-Poofters
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 3
Jerry Garcia
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Temples of Stone
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Elvis Lives in Takaka
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Electricorp Production
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
1080 and the Letter G
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
Rawhide
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Responsible Lunges
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acid Test First Watering Hole
 7
V5 6C Boulder
Blobbet Track 1
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Romancing the stone Track 3
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Doo-Little Track 5
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Good Bye Cream-Poofters Track 1
 15
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Jerry Garcia Track 5
 3
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Temples of Stone Track 2
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Elvis Lives in Takaka Track 1
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Electricorp Production Track 4
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
1080 and the Letter G Track 6
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Rawhide Track 1
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Responsible Lunges Track 3
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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