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Routes in Broken Rock

Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muad'Dib S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Beach T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Broken Rock is a fairly good name for this crag. Cracks riddle its faces, and most of the route development is in these cracks. The rock is somewhat similar to that of Castle in quality, but has a different aspect (North and West) and much less traffic. The climbs are mostly short and on a low tier, so they get shade when the sun is low. Perhaps this contributes to the overall "wetter" feel of this crag, with a little more lichen, moss, and oh... guano than most normally popular crags. Were this cliff clean and not right next to Castle Rock, it would see a lot of traffic.

Getting off of the routes here can be done by fixed anchors on some routes, by traversing to the fixed anchors from other routes, and by a walk-off uphill then back down, from the rest. I have done the two "recommended" routes by stars in Rossiter's book, and found the moves to be 3-star moves on decent rock, at least partially ruined by guano. This is Momentum Operator Crack (11a, technical, solid, overhanging jam crack to the best bomb-bay in the canyon) and Crack Up (5.9, leaning, overhanging dihedral with a hand-to-fist crack). The other lines nearby seem to be similar.

L->R (may not be correct):

A. Lichet or Leave It, 10, 4, gear.
B. Undercling?, 9 or 10, 1p, gear.
C. Whimsey?, 11-, 1p, gear.
D. Cosmic Whimp Out?, 11-, 1p, gear.
E. Tree Trimmer, 11, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
F. Hung Jury?, 9+, 1p, gear.
G. Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer, 10- or 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
G. Momentum Operator, 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
H. White Trash, 11, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.
I. Crack Up, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
J. Eulogy, 9+/10 PG-13, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Sue's Song?, 10, 1p, gear.
L. Turkish Revenge?, 10, 1p, gear.
M. South Beach, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Fit for Life, 12, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
O. Muad'Dib, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

Drive to Castle Rock and park. Go down the gravel road near Country Club Crack, where the road crosses the stream via a bridge. Walk over the bridge to the opposite side of the river (1 minute total, to here) and you are at Broken Rock. A majority of the routes are on the upper right-hand side, within 200 feet of the road. A few lie to the left.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broken Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Momentum Operator
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Momentum Operator
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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Please don't bolt the line w/ the fixed nuts, please... Nov 22, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The routes on 'The Overlook' are graded pretty mercifully, while the route ratings down below on 'Broken Rock' are pretty stiff. Buyer beware. May 19, 2009

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