Broken Rock Rock Climbing
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W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Broken Rock is a fairly good name for this crag. Cracks riddle its faces, and most of the route development is in these cracks. The rock is somewhat similar to that of Castle in quality, but has a different aspect (North and West) and much less traffic. The climbs are mostly short and on a low tier, so they get shade when the sun is low. Perhaps this contributes to the overall "wetter" feel of this crag, with a little more lichen, moss, and oh... guano than most normally popular crags. Were this cliff clean and not right next to Castle Rock, it would see a lot of traffic.
Getting off of the routes here can be done by fixed anchors on some routes, by traversing to the fixed anchors from other routes, and by a walk-off uphill then back down, from the rest. I have done the two "recommended" routes by stars in Rossiter's book, and found the moves to be 3-star moves on decent rock, at least partially ruined by guano. This is Momentum Operator Crack (11a, technical, solid, overhanging jam crack to the best bomb-bay in the canyon) and Crack Up (5.9, leaning, overhanging dihedral with a hand-to-fist crack). The other lines nearby seem to be similar.
L->R (may not be correct):
A. Lichet or Leave It, 10, 4, gear.
B. Undercling, 9 or 10, 2p, 200', gear.
C. Whimsey?, 11-, 1p, gear.
D. Cosmic Whimp Out?, 11-, 1p, gear.
E. Hung Jury, 9+ - 10- PG-13, 2p, 250, gear.
F. The Verdict, 9, 1p, 120', gear.
G. Tree Trimmer, 11, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
H. Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer, 10- or 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
I. Momentum Operator, 11-, 1p, 60', gear.
J. White Trash, 11, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.
K. Crack Up, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
L. Eulogy, 9+/10 PG-13, 1p, 70', gear.
M. Sue's Song, 10 PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.
N. Turkish Revenge?, 10, 1p, gear.
O. South Beach, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
P. Fit for Life, 12, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
Q. Muad'Dib, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
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