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Routes in Broken Rock

Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muad'Dib S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Beach T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 133 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Edit]

This is the farthest left of routes facing the creek. Clint Casey led me up this on June 29, 2016. Because he hasn't posted this route, I am doing so.

Climb a short, horrendously lichened, right-leaning, right-facing dihedral, and surmount the end of the overhang (5.10). Continue up discontinuous cracks in the horrendously lichened slab. To enable communication and reduce rope drag, belay at the small tree.

Pitch two is also short and diagonals right to the base of the undercling, which is on the Undercling route.

Pitch three climbs the Undercling (5.10, unless you are TALL). To facilitate communication and to reduce rope drag, belay as soon as possible. An easy, low angle pitch takes you to the big ledge/platform that traverses underneath the Overlook.

Walk southeast, then west, down to the creek.

Location [Edit]

From the road, walk up through the woods a short distance to the base of the route, which is the left-most on Broken Rock.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack.



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