Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Broken Rock
|
Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Hung Jury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Muad'Dib S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
South Beach T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sue's Song T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Undercling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Verdict, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9792, -105.4542 |
| FA: | T. Bubb, K. Arhendt, 7/4/20 |
| Page Views: | 563 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab
Details
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
The Verdict is an optional/variant 2nd pitch from the 1st pitch of Hung Jury.
The climb starts off fun and interesting in an acute flare, then it has a bit of moderate climbing before reaching a vertical crack section, then there is a bit more low angle climbing to the top. The good sections are well worth doing, and the rest is forgettable. At least it straightens out the line for Hung Jury and allows that to be lead as a single long pitch if so desired.
From the belay at the top of P1 of Hung Jury, look directly up into a dark flare. At the back of this acute squeeze, there is a hand and fist crack. A #4 Camalot or 4" Friend would protect the opening moves, but a #3 Camalot is also quickly available, making the #4 optional. Jam and slither up the dark corner to a lower angle section, heading for a dark band of rock directly above At the dark band, some more crystalline rock forms a vertical section. While some of this appears rotten at first, the cracks on the right side of it are actually quite solid and take good protection. Climb up this and continue onward toward the summit, eventually hitting a lower-angle system that takes you behind a medium-sized tree before hitting the summit slabs (and belay opportunities) after well over 100' of climbing. The moderate climbing is not as well-protected, but probably it is not worrisome for anyone who can climb 5.9.
Belay up top, and scramble/walk off as for Hung Jury.
Location
This is a pitch directly up from the top of P1 of Hung Jury, starting in a 5 meter dark corner and heading up from there to the top.
0 Comments