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Routes in Broken Rock
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Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hung Jury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Muad'Dib S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Beach T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sue's Song T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Undercling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Verdict, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.9792, -105.4542 |
| FA: | D. Hare, J. Warren, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 643 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25.
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
P1, (5.10a, 115'): start off from the edge of 'The Beach' if the water is low enough, climbing up the low angle rock headed for the inset notch in the roof, targeting its right side, coming in from to the right of that. As you reach the notch, a few opportunities for protection present themselves to the right of a dirty and very questionable flake trapped in the notch of the roof. Take these as they come, and protect well before committing into the roof climbing. Avoiding that flake insofar as possible, climb up into the crux roof. Cracks to the left (1.5") and to the right (2.5") can both take gear, but to the right is more above previous placements and probably safer to protect. Turn the roof, gaining better gear and solid rock, and gain jam-cracks above the crux. Continue up the crack on easier climbing (5.6) to reach a good belay ledge. A shark's fin of a flake presents itself as a belay opportunity. Throw a cordalette over this, and belay just below a dark, slightly acute slot in a left-facing corner, that surprisingly is NOT P2.
P2 (5.moderate, 130'. junky): from the flake belay, traverse left below a bulge, leftward perhaps 3 meters to reach a crack and corner system. Protect here and head up, and then go up and and right. Pick your way past a series of slabs, cracks, and an occasional tree to reach a big slab before the summit of the rock. Build a belay, and bring up your partner.
To finish up, scramble to the summit (on belay or off) of the rock by traversing further off further to the North and West.
Location
Cross the bridge from Castle Rock to Broken Rock, and take a right turn to head away from the road. In low water, a small beach-like bowl of flat earth lies just below this route. In very high water, a shallow pool is here, making the choice of a starting point more difficult.
Looking up, a broad roof band 10 meters or so up acts as a barrier between lower slabby climbing and the cracks above. A meter-wide incut through this where the roof has fallen away creates a notch with cracks on either side of it and a suspended death-flake in the center. This is the crux of the bottom pitch of Hung Jury.
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