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Routes in Broken Rock

Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muad'Dib S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Beach T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Ron Olsen and Greg Hand
Page Views: 140 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 13, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is near the top at the last bolt. Pumpy route with cool moves.

Start as for Crack Up...climb 15 feet up the crack and then go left to the first bolt...race you arms up the steep face to a series of technical moves getting past the second and third bolts.

Protection

Camalots to a #3 and five quickdraws.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
FA was certainly done on or before 2003 as a T.R. (myself) but it was more than likely much earlier- it's obvious and it's below the anchors.
FFA: Bob, Ron & Greg I guess, because I don't know that anyone led it.
But that leaves to ethical question the practice of bolting TR's. Seems like a grey area when it's unknown and in a relatively unpopular area. So perhaps the question is bolting what could so obviously be one? Jul 14, 2006