Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Broken Rock

Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muad'Dib S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Beach T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Hare and Wood, 1980? bolted: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 2006
Page Views: 1,143 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is the very overhanging hand to fist crack.

Location

Start ten feet left of Momentum Operator.

Protection

Gear up to a blue Camalot and a couple of quickdraws for the two bolts at the start.

Rap from a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
I can see where it is a different climb if you want to stay completely away from the stinkin' piles of BS in the corner... but yeah, those are retrobolts and the climb is 5.10. For a 5.11, get on Momentum Operator, to the right. Jun 29, 2015
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10-
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10-
In the '99 Rositer book, this line is described as 'Out to Pasture', 10a, Hare and Wood, 1980, which seems about right. Funny that somewhere since it gets two bolts, renamed, and upgraded.
Don't know how its described in the newer BC book, but then you wouldn't know anything re the history or first ascentionist from that guide anyway....
Fun little line. Jun 12, 2011
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
Agree with Dave, probably a full number grade easier. There is a route in the Rossiter book, I think it is called "Altar" (5.10) that seems very similar to Momentus Fist Trainer, minus the bolts at the start.... Jun 24, 2009
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
This climb was inspired by the Momentus Swing Trainer which is designed to improve your golf swing. This climb will help you improve your fist jamming technique. May 17, 2006