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Routes in Broken Rock

Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Muad'Dib S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Beach T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
Page Views: 271 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route climbs way better than it looks. Follow the line of bolts up the steep slab. Cool moves getting past the lower part of the route using flakes and pockets. The upper part has a reach move to gain a cool bucket and then the top.

Location

Start 50 feet right of "Fit for Life" on the right side of the wall.

Protection

Six clips to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

...the one who can be many places at once... Apr 20, 2006
Great route for the length. Seemed about 10c. Jun 11, 2006
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Great start to this route, requiring balancy, slab technique. The moves were non-obvious, and the thought process was part of the fun. Jul 4, 2007
D. Shaw  
Two hard parts, the rest easy. First hard part at 2nd bolt, about 10c. Aug 6, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard. Apr 6, 2015
Evan18
Boulder, CO
Evan18   Boulder, CO
Fun lower crux, decent route for sure if you're in the area. Unfortunate bolting though - definitely some unnecessary ledge/deck potential with the bolt placement. Funny how you round the corner and the grades change, felt like a BoCan 10b but a Castle Rock 9. Jan 23, 2017

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