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Routes in Ultraman Wall

Clutch Cargo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Destroy All Monsters S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghidorah T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Godzilla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hex Files, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
MK Ultra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mothra T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rodan T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Scent of the Ultraman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Science Patrol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speed Racer T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
TR Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultramagnetic MCs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ultraman S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Elevation: 4,151 ft
GPS: 36.152, -115.431 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,183 total, 100/month
Shared By: Eric-D on Aug 12, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

This sunny slab is located to the west of Panty Wall. Runout sandstone slab climbing is the name of the game. Most of the routes are in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. A light rack and 2 ropes will be useful on some of the routes. The area classic is Ultraman 5.8+. You better have have slab technique squared away before hoping on these routes.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Approach as for Panty Wall. Follow the trail west out of the parking lot. After heading up the hill and down into the gully, pick you way through the large boulders up the hill. The cliff with a smiley face ledge is the one your are heading for.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ultraman Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Route
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scent of the Ultraman
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Godzilla
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mothra
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Science Patrol
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ultraman
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Speed Racer
Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ghidorah
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clutch Cargo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
TR Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Scent of the Ultraman 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Godzilla 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Mothra 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Science Patrol 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ultraman 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport
Speed Racer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad, Sport
Ghidorah 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Clutch Cargo 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ultraman Wall »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
B. L.  
The first bolts start really high here for some of the climbs.. I'm not sure that you could even reach all of them with a stick clip. Maybe a trad piece might come in handy if you wanted a more protected start. I only did one climb here and loved it.. but as everyone else has said.. be prepared for big runouts. Sep 13, 2016
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Added a layout beta pic. The large scale of this area + the resolution limits on MP made it tricky and it might not translate to the app well , after the next update I will check and try and adjust accordingly.

7/3/2015
Uploaded a new version with things scaled differently , in hopes of improving clarity on the mobile app/ tablets ect.. Jun 9, 2015
A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock. Dec 21, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
I would note that this wall is old school slab climbing and should be treated as such. That these routes are bolted should not lull people into thinking that these are 'sport' routes- the routes, while not dangerous, are somewhat run-out and being proficient at the grade makes these routes much more enjoyable. Science Patrol is an exception- this route is very well bolted and has extremely fun climbing- well worth the second rope needed to descend! Feb 14, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On Feb 3rd, the ASCA replaced 21 bolts on this wall- Speed Racer and Science Patrol now have all new equipment, including new anchors.

No bolts were added, although some were moved somewhat from their original positions due to rock quality/clipping stance concerns. No more than 1'-2' in any of the cases, and in all cases, the clipping stances were either improved or maintained. Feb 3, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Update (Edit): As of today, 1/14/10, Ultraman has been restored to its original condition- the final old pro bolt was removed (along with the tat station that had formed) and the final studs protruding from the rock were chopped. We also chopped the stud on the clutch cargo anchor and patched all of the holes.

We did NOT add any bolts to the route- I did move one bolt 3' left so that it is now on route, rather than quite a ways off route (this was the 3rd or 4th bolt, if i recall). All other bolts were replaced one for one, no bolts were added to the route. (Edit: We checked an no additional bolts have appeared on the route)

At any rate, we are planning on replacing the bolts on the other routes on the crag in the near future.

Finally- the mussy hooks placed on Clutch Cargo are for ease of rappelling, and as with all anchors in Red Rock, you should use your own quickdraws for top roping the route.

I do apologize for the less than perfect 'fix' of this route- the heavy traffic at the crag on the adopt-a-crag day limited our time to finish the work- but rest assured that I will return to the crag as soon as possible and complete the work. Jan 12, 2010
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
If you don't have two 60 m ropes there are easy walkoffs both right and left of the wall. The one climber's left is more straightforward, but both are third class. Mar 16, 2009
TedV
Lost Wages
TedV   Lost Wages
I lead Scent of the Ultraman, Clutch Cargo and Ultraman today and really enjoyed all three. Ultraman is the best of the three for sure. Maybe they are a little bit run out, but you aren't going to crater or anything. Keep as much rubber on the rock as you can and you'll be fine. Dec 27, 2008
As a new sport lead climber (that did not lead here), I would never take new leaders to the Ultraman Wall. The routes here are extremely run-out, and 2 60m ropes are essential. Ground fall is possible sometimes up to the 3rd bolt. We had veteran lead climbers, and they were even shocked at the run-out.
We thought we'd get in a easy day of moderate slab climbing and what we got was heady, "pray your leader makes it to the next bolt" climbing.
Unfortunately, the 4 of us would be in the "hate it" category. Oct 8, 2008
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
This is one of the first climbs I led when I moved out here. After my lead, which I found a little spicy, people told me that the rating is a sandbag. Instead of being 5.8 it's really 5.10. Since I don't generally lead 5.10 face, I would agree with the 5.8r rating. There are protection possibilities as well as the bolts, providing you have some nice small gear. Mar 6, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
Totally agree with Gigette; this wall is super fun and the run-outs are not that bad, just keep your feet underneath ya!! Jan 3, 2007
It seems people either love or hate this slabby wall. You don't hear about too much in between. Ive seen 5.10 climbers sketched and 5.8 climbers loving it, and vice versa. I happen to be one of Ultraman's lovers. I guess there's a bit of "runout on slab" concern to think about ,but I felt comfortable leading these routes, as it was somewhat low angle and in the 5.8-5.9 range. Maybe if I have ever actually fallen on slab I wouldn't care for it too much, who knows.(I'm speaking of Clutch Cargo, Ultraman and Speed Racer, as I haven't tried the other routes yet. ) In my opinion ,the "smiley faced" Ultraman Wall is worth hopping on and worth your trip out ,if you don't mind some runout on slab.He (Ultraman W.) is so damn beautiful from afar and near. F.Y.I. These routes are long for sport routes, and I've seen it work best if you bring the second up from the top anchors, instead of trying to top-rope it, but it's a preference thing, as I've seen it done both ways fine. Aug 8, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
There is an undocumented route on the far left side of this cliff with 3-4 bolts to a chain anchor. It looked to be about 5.6 to 5.7. Oct 26, 2004

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