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Ultraman Wall

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (03) First Pullout (C…
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

This sunny slab is located to the west of Panty Wall. Runout sandstone slab climbing is the name of the game. Most of the routes are in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. A light rack and 2 ropes will be useful on some of the routes. The area classic is Ultraman 5.8+. You better have slab technique squared away before hopping on these routes.

Getting There

Approach as for Panty Wall. Follow the trail west out of the parking lot. After heading up the hill and down into the gully, pick you way through the large boulders up the hill. The cliff with a smiley face ledge is the one your are heading for.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
Scent of the Ultraman
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Mach 5
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Unknown
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Mothra
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 7
Ghidorah
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
Clutch Cargo
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 123
Ultraman
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 9
MK Ultra
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 26
Speed Racer
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Ultramagnetic MCs
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Godzilla
Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Destroy All Monsters
Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 3
Rodan
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Science Patrol
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 5
The Hex Files
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scent of the Ultraman
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Mach 5
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Unknown
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Mothra
 27
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ghidorah
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Clutch Cargo
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Ultraman
 123
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport, TR
MK Ultra
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Speed Racer
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad, Sport, TR
Ultramagnetic MCs
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Godzilla
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Destroy All Monsters
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Rodan
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad, TR
Science Patrol
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
The Hex Files
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes at Ultraman Wall.First bolts circled. Cheers.(Best viewed full size)
[Hide Photo] Routes at Ultraman Wall.First bolts circled. Cheers.(Best viewed full size)
Ultraman Wall
[Hide Photo] Ultraman Wall
Ultraman16
[Hide Photo] Ultraman16
Ultraman16
[Hide Photo] Ultraman16
As viewed from Newcastle crag area
[Hide Photo] As viewed from Newcastle crag area
ULTRAMAN19
[Hide Photo] ULTRAMAN19
Ultraman13
[Hide Photo] Ultraman13
First clip on Ultraman
[Hide Photo] First clip on Ultraman
The Ultraman Wall from the approach.
[Hide Photo] The Ultraman Wall from the approach.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
[Hide Comment] There is an undocumented route on the far left side of this cliff with 3-4 bolts to a chain anchor. It looked to be about 5.6 to 5.7. Oct 26, 2004
[Hide Comment] It seems people either love or hate this slabby wall. You don't hear about too much in between. Ive seen 5.10 climbers sketched and 5.8 climbers loving it, and vice versa. I happen to be one of Ultraman's lovers. I guess there's a bit of "runout on slab" concern to think about ,but I felt comfortable leading these routes, as it was somewhat low angle and in the 5.8-5.9 range. Maybe if I have ever actually fallen on slab I wouldn't care for it too much, who knows.(I'm speaking of Clutch Cargo, Ultraman and Speed Racer, as I haven't tried the other routes yet. ) In my opinion ,the "smiley faced" Ultraman Wall is worth hopping on and worth your trip out ,if you don't mind some runout on slab.He (Ultraman W.) is so damn beautiful from afar and near. F.Y.I. These routes are long for sport routes, and I've seen it work best if you bring the second up from the top anchors, instead of trying to top-rope it, but it's a preference thing, as I've seen it done both ways fine. Aug 8, 2005
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] Totally agree with Gigette; this wall is super fun and the run-outs are not that bad, just keep your feet underneath ya!! Jan 3, 2007
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
[Hide Comment] This is one of the first climbs I led when I moved out here. After my lead, which I found a little spicy, people told me that the rating is a sandbag. Instead of being 5.8 it's really 5.10. Since I don't generally lead 5.10 face, I would agree with the 5.8r rating. There are protection possibilities as well as the bolts, providing you have some nice small gear. Mar 6, 2007
[Hide Comment] As a new sport lead climber (that did not lead here), I would never take new leaders to the Ultraman Wall. The routes here are extremely run-out, and 2 60m ropes are essential. Ground fall is possible sometimes up to the 3rd bolt. We had veteran lead climbers, and they were even shocked at the run-out.
We thought we'd get in a easy day of moderate slab climbing and what we got was heady, "pray your leader makes it to the next bolt" climbing.
Unfortunately, the 4 of us would be in the "hate it" category. Oct 8, 2008
TedV
Lost Wages
[Hide Comment] I lead Scent of the Ultraman, Clutch Cargo and Ultraman today and really enjoyed all three. Ultraman is the best of the three for sure. Maybe they are a little bit run out, but you aren't going to crater or anything. Keep as much rubber on the rock as you can and you'll be fine. Dec 27, 2008
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
[Hide Comment] If you don't have two 60 m ropes there are easy walkoffs both right and left of the wall. The one climber's left is more straightforward, but both are third class. Mar 16, 2009
[Hide Comment] A 70M rope is very helpful on this wall for rapping and being able to TR climbs with groups. 2 ropes are necessary on some of the longest pitches, a 70 and a tag line would let you do pretty much anything. A light rack gets you up everything but The Hex Files, bring a double rack if you're ticking that line, otherwise save the weight for extra water. Very warm wall for Red Rock. Dec 21, 2013
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] Added a layout beta pic. The large scale of this area + the resolution limits on MP made it tricky and it might not translate to the app well , after the next update I will check and try and adjust accordingly.

7/3/2015
Uploaded a new version with things scaled differently , in hopes of improving clarity on the mobile app/ tablets ect.. Jun 9, 2015
Ben L
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] The first bolts start really high here for some of the climbs.. I'm not sure that you could even reach all of them with a stick clip. Maybe a trad piece might come in handy if you wanted a more protected start. I only did one climb here and loved it.. but as everyone else has said.. be prepared for big runouts. Sep 13, 2016
Tom Ponte
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] I have parked and climbed at the first pull out probably 25 times in the last three years and have only seen one party of two on the Ultraman wall. I have gone up to look at it and was not comfortable with how run out it looked for friction climbing. I no doubt will get flamed by the climbing ethics police for this but with the heavily used Hamlet close by why not through some more bolts in on a couple of them for beginning and intermediate climbers to practice friction climbing on? It is not like Calico Hills is an undrilled virgin in the wilderness. The general public is not going to see a few more bolts way up there from the parking lot and they do not go up there hiking/scrambling. I know the climbing ethic seems to be that friction climbing needs to be appropriately spicy and run out preferably with sketchy protection like slung chicken heads but if your an expert climber and really need spicy why not get naked leave the rope at home? Climbers who are real comfortable with run out friction/slab climbing do not appear to bother with these moderates and are probably more likely to want to do big multi pitch climbs in the western canyons right? May 20, 2022
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Tom Ponte, there are a hundreds of well-protected sport climbs in the surrounding area. Not every wall needs to cater to your need for closely-spaced protection. New bolts should never be added to existing routes without consulting the local climbing community and getting the approval of the first ascensionists so I appreciate you posing the question here. Plenty of climbers have enjoyed these routes exactly as they have been found. Please do not "through some more bolts in on a couple of them". This wall has already been the scene of vandalism, with holds chiseled and bolts added to Scent of Ultraman. Please, let's not got through this again. Thanks. May 20, 2022
Tom Ponte
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Not so sure I need closely spaced bolts but rather safely spaced bolts. Most of the other closely bolted climbs in the area are patina jug hauls not slab climbing and I would be totally comfortable skipping bolts on most of those. Aug 6, 2022
[Hide Comment] Run out slab climbing that is good preparation if you are wanting to do some of the domes in Yosemite/Tuolumne Meadows. The rock quality on Ultraman and Clutch Cargo is good, but decreases as you move left and right. Once you lead on route, you can pretty easily move top rope anchors if you don't mind some scrambling. Dec 17, 2022
Tom Ponte
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] In the afternoon your body can cast a shadow on possible foot placements making them hard to see. Plus your eyes need to adjust from bright sun to shade. If you go early when the sun is across the face it will be easier. The furthest route to the north has had about a half a dozen big holds the size of a fist chipped out with a hammer. So it doesn't exactly fit the Ultraman image. (They would be super ugly if someone tried to fill them with epoxy) The 5.9 one is pretty thin in spots with no hand holds and runout with no extra bolts in those sections so you have to be confident with friction climbing footwork. The first part of that is good climbing with hand holds. I saw a couple of young ultra women there yesterday who hooted so everyone would notice them at the base of the cliff. They proceeded to suit up take pictures of themselves then left without climbing anything. LOL Social media posers. Its not all that uncommon now. Speaking of posers I TR soloed several of these. Thankfully the ethics police were not around so I didn't get cited. Mar 6, 2024