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Routes in Ultraman Wall

Clutch Cargo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Destroy All Monsters S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghidorah T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Godzilla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hex Files, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
MK Ultra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mothra T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rodan T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Scent of the Ultraman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Science Patrol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speed Racer T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
TR Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultramagnetic MCs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ultraman S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Killis Howard, C. Long, ...
Page Views: 970 total, 20/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Dec 21, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Sparsely protected but reasonably safe face climbing up the most prominent features on the left side of the wall, 2 short stacked black varnished corners. Route was put in ground-up, onsight, but may become a fairly popular toprope due to the relative ease of obtaining the anchors from the central ledge where many of the routes finish. The character of this one is a bit different in that it is not as blank or slab-oriented as some of the existing routes, more of a mellow face climb with some spice.

Location

30 feet left of Clutch Cargo is a large barrel cactus, above which are visible a few red-painted camo hangers. The route climbs up to and through the 2 short varnished corners before finishing up the face to an anchor on the left edge of the central scoop where several of the routes on this cliff finish.

Protection

As is typical on Ultraman Wall, climbing is lower-angle and fairly runout. A single rack of cams to 1" and wires is plenty for the route, long slings for choking chickenheads and extending placements in the two corner sections to cut down on drag. Strong leaders will probably be happy getting by with a #13 nut and a .4 or .5 cam, the climbing is secure and protected by bolts anywhere near cruxy moves.

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Ben Townsend  
 
Nice climb, pretty easy after the initilal boulder problem move. I suggest skipping the bolt next to the upper corner, as it adds a lot of drag and there's reasonable gear available. Nov 17, 2016
On 10/27/2014, we placed chains and mussy hooks at the anchor. This is really a wonderful mixed climb for the beginning leader. We laid a backpack on top of the barrel cactus below the start to avoid a prickly tragedy. Nov 8, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
fun route. the black corner area protects well with small tri cams. also ,there is gear to be had in between the black varnished plates. i backed up the rings at the anchor with a cord. 2 quick links on each bolt would make a nice lower off anchor, if anyone wants to bring them up there. Apr 12, 2014
Thanks for the vote of confidence on this one, John. Thought I was treading the line of what was going to be acceptable for a trade route. The last bolt was a retrobolt that I put in after finishing the route with a 30 foot runout, thought the distance and the crunch factor justified making it a bit safer for the crowds. Overall I'm happy with the end result, got back to remove the spinning bolt so hardware should be all good now. Feb 13, 2014
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Fun route, the corners are scenic. In addition to the draws I only used a medium-size nut and a long sling for a chicken head. Feb 12, 2014
Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will get you a clean pull. Dec 21, 2013