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Routes in Ultraman Wall

Clutch Cargo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Destroy All Monsters S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghidorah T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Godzilla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hex Files, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
MK Ultra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mothra T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rodan T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Scent of the Ultraman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Science Patrol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speed Racer T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
TR Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultramagnetic MCs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ultraman S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: K Howard H Yang C long
Page Views: 315 total, 9/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jan 13, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A surprisingly moderate and well-protected face climb that simply eats as much gear as you can throw at it for the first half, then steepens and follows three bolts to a spacious ledge and bolted anchor just left of Godzilla's. Quality rock for a Calico Hills first ascent.

Location

Start with an mantel on black rock fifteen feet left of Godzilla's start to a shallow corner that takes gear. Follow good pro and intuition up fun features to a steeper, bolt-protected upper wall to anchors. We rapped Godzilla with a 70M since it seemed very possible that we wouldn't make the ground with a single line.

Protection

I used double cams from 00-.5 and found a set of offset brass to be useful in addition to a set of stoppers. Lots of slings are a good idea since pro is plentiful and zigzags a bit from crack to crack. I appreciated a red C3/green alien size piece near the top between the last two bolts.

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Ben Townsend  
 
Great climbing, bring lots of wires including micros. The top bolts don't have chains or rings, but the anchor of Godzilla is just a step to the right. 70m rope works for a rappel if you angle east (climber's right). Nov 17, 2016